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Soldering with a slip coupler would always be the best but if you're diy'ing then a compression slip coupler may be the solution for you.

Stelrad are the only ones I found that do K2 (Type22) vertical rads like that. The others are all column or designer tubular type rads.

The only other thing I would mention is that if a system refuses to settle down after repeated attempts and constantly corrodes and the pipe is plastic it may be time to check the class of the pipework. Some earlier systems may have been piped up with non barrier pipe. The pipe is gas permeable...

I sometimes wish I had the equipment to be able to cut open old rads and see what's going on. The system I had that problem with had been leaking underfloor for such a long time and the client had just constantly added water to re-pressurise, this had been going on for a long time and the system...

It sure would, it has, in effect a pumped outflow. Not surprised it's doing it given the way that waste is all setup. As suggested, get rid of that multibowl grey waste, it is one of the reasons for the issue. Run a single trap off of the left hand sink and then a new waste pipe run back and...

Absolutely - Build the cabinet, then screw the hook clips onto the front panel and the retainers onto the cabinet so they are set correctly, then unscrew either the retainers or the hook clips. Then remove the front panel as normal and remove the dowels and unscrew the cam pins.

Most are removable as they are a flat pack kit as the cams can unlock and the front pulled off as most flat pack kits do. You can get the hook clips that allow the front to be removeable by sliding up though. You can also get the clips to allow the top panel to be pulled forward. It makes a huge...

I think that everyone uses polymer adhesives now just because they are there and available. Me, I think it's a bit of an overkill, I've used silicone sealant for as long as, without any issues, it's a little more flexible and has a bit more give when it comes to acrylic baths so I don't see any...

Right

Nothing you can do about that drain in the floor unless you cut open the floor and move it. Building a plinth would be the easiest way to go by the looks of it.

Yup - relatively easy. As long as they have removable fronts that pull up and off, some don't and they keep changing these things. If it isn't they can be a pain to fit the pan with the flush pipe and pan connector and to and get everything checked, tested and dry. So much easier when the...

OK - there's the problem, it's a shallow bath trap. Whoever changed the outside works and removed the hopper didn't check the bath trap. That would have been fine with a hopper, given it's now a longer waste run with a vertical section then it will pull on that shallow seal. I don't think...

If it's a standard multikwick pan connector then typically the pipe it would fit would be 110mm. The Fernoc will not fit as the pipe that the pan connector is fitted into is level with the ground. Usually toilet spigots are around 105mm so refit a new multikwik and a normal 110mm socket plug...

Just run some white caulk around the outside of the case Some kits do come with pipe snap clips or good duct tape, a large jubilee clip could be used too.

If it's that tight in and some reasonable pushing and pulling isn't loosening then I'd be looking to cut it around the grout at the pan. Dremel with a diamond blade would probably do the job. Worst case would be to crack it off with a hammer to leave the foot then a chisel to break inwards...

You can use any of the polymer adhesives - CT1/OB1/SticksLikeShlt etc. You don't need a lot - this is just to anchor and hold the tray down, it's not so the tray sits up on it - So it's spots of adhesives equally over the area of the tray base or plywood, either or. Add the spots, lay the tray...

If it's a flat based stone resin tray and the plywood flooring is nice and solid/stable, flat and level then an adhesive will work - I use silicone adhesives in those cases without issue, not to be confused with silicone sealant. I then use silicone sealant on the tray edges at all the wall(s)...

They absolutely can - but tanking - I always do it as a default now, especially if it's in an upstairs bathroom where plasterboard or P5 chipboard is concerned. Invariably it's not the tiles or grout (or wetboard) that is leaking when the bath/shower is dropping water down into the kitchen...

Have to disagree - It is if a waterproof anti mould grout is used, properly applied and then sealed correctly for anything unglazed/porcelain. Trouble is some tilers don't have a clue or don't care and customers don't ensure that it's done properly.

Absolutely, and of course any size of PVC pipe can normally be had these days but that's specifically PVC pressure pipe, hence the price. That's more for commercial or industrial use and is specc'd up to 10 bar to can carry mains potable water etc. It is also chemically resistant so can be used...