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Ah OK , should have checked back on the pic, that's the issue. Given the bath waste is downstream of the basin waste run, the slug of water from the basin emptying is rushing past the bath waste at the tee - given the basin waste is also 40mm at that point, that then creates a venturi effect and...

Is the bath trap definitely getting syphoned, or could it be getting blown? The anti vac valve should certainly be stopping the basin creating a vacuum when draining and then pulling on the trap, or is the basin upstream on the run?

The valve bodies themselves should be standard 1/2" bsp valves - the key parts with them are the splines size (diameter and height) and the number of splines. So measure and count them, then go online. If they are Bristan then they should take the Bristan valves. If not then they may be one of...

Most pro's I know use McAlpine, myself included. Where do those 2 pipes comes from, are then connected to another part of the tray? Can you take a pic of the whole tray from up top and a closer one around the trap below, where it meets the tray? The waste section of the trap inside the tray...

If it is mains fed hot and cold, then they will all work adequately well, size of feeds dependent. Even copper all the way up with push fit 15mm>3/4" tap connectors would work (edit) just as well What is the proper, pro way though, that's a whole other question all together ;) But sometimes...

If you hold it onto the pipe say a metre or 2 away and then at the valve there should be a noticeable difference.

Wouldn't matter - if you are in the right location you will hear the difference, use that method all the time to locate a problem valve anywhere on a pipe run

It's one of these that's in there and it's been over cut so doesn't seal properly To minimise any increase in height when using a double socket and waste pipe adapter then you could use one of these - Polypipe 110mm adapter - then it just needs a rubber 40mm boss adapter

Post a pic of what's there once it's all removed

As suggested - if you hold a large screwdriver onto each part of the control group and create the knock then it will be very apparent what components is knocking. NRV's are very simple valves with a very light spring holding them so I would be quite surprised if it was that creating that level...

Sure does - hammer will be created when the water goes from still to moving to still again. It's the abrupt water stop/start movement that creates the pressure wave. As water doesn't compress then that shockwave will travel along the water until it dissipates, that can be when it hits a valve...

+1 - the mixer cartridge in the top has it's own integral seals that are part of it, only option is to replace it.

Yes - get rid of the foil and let's see what's there - that's just a bodge by someone trying to fix an issue. With the correct fittings ( ideally not putty) it should be able to be sorted out. The drains may need a clean/jet out too, if it's that bad.

TBH I've never liked shock arresters, all they do is mask the issue IMO and they do need to be maintained, so for me it's just another component that can cause a problem, adds another level of complexity and it's then potentially another one to diagnose. If the hammer you are describing is that...

Absolutely - but if there is water hammer in the balanced cold then any pressure wave travelling up the balanced cold could force it's was past the NRV, which could also cause it to knock. If the hammer is being caused by outlet(s) on the balanced cold supply side then It has to be a pressure...

Pick a hole saw that's a few mm larger that the 3/4" BSP tap inlets but obviously smaller then the tap base collars. I'd usually use a 32-35mm cutter, leaves a little wiggle room.

Water hammer is caused by hydraulic shock, invariably where the pressure is higher and there is a valve that shuts down quickly. That quick shut down causes a pressure spike and creates a pressure wave and that will travel along and rattle any valves or loose pipework that it encounters until it...

Yes, as above, as long as there is a few mm of pipe past the edge of the olive

Yeah, same issue with 2 combi's though, and the issue with them is they won't run out of hot water.

As suggested, it all depends on the type you get. The flat plate type heads, which are usually the ones that are all steel, would normally require a high flow mains pressure shower and supply given the flat design and narrow waterways in the head to maintain a decent flow. With an Aqualisa Midas...