Search results

I have dug a hole in my conservatory to fix some drainage issues and we’ve decided to change the tiles as we have few spares and some tiles have broken loose due to vibrations from the concrete breaker. I’m going to have to fill the hole with a sand base, then concrete and self levelling...

It actually was quite difficult to lift them up without breaking them using an sds drill with chisel; I ended up breaking them all

What does it mean? Wrong adhesive was used? Too much? Too little?

I tried and it sits higher; it looks like there is some adhesive the same color of the concrete or they have been ‘concreted in’

I actually replaced an open gully with a sealed section and a rodding point. There will be a fillable access hatch to provide access to the rodding eye.

I removed some tiles and broken the concrete underneath need to gain access to some drainage. I now need to cover this hole with concrete, use a leveller to bring the surface flush (or just shy) of the existing one and installing new tiles. Do I have to grind the concrete that is visible in the...

I also wonder if I’ll be able to install the replacement tiles without them sitting proud of the existing ones. I might have to grind some of the existing concrete, or is there a better way?

Hello, I just removed a gully from my conservatory, after removing sone tiles and breaking the concrete with a breaker. The concrete was ‘armoured’ as I found a metal grid embedded. I have now fitted the plastic drainage system and a rodding eye (which needs to stay accessible) The floor will be...

Just to close this off, I went ahead with a soil pipe tee and a rodding point. I’ve connected the 40mm pipe to the back of the pipe with one of these https://www.plastics-express.co.uk/110mm-single-waste-adaptor-40mm-p-pte384 And then connected to the clay pipe with I’ll fit a floor...

Having thought about this I think I can just install the gully at a low level and then just have an access hatch at floor level with the cover fully tiled according to the pattern of the rest of the room. My question now is, do I need to install a bottle gully or can I use something like this...

Is it possible to have the lid of the new plastic gully flush with the existing flooring without having to move the clay pipe? I wouldn’t mind having the sealed lid visible if flush with the tiles, I guess I’m asking if the new gully below floor level could be ‘extended’ so that the lid is higher.

I never get to see it. Last time I unblocked it as I pushed the pressure washer attachment hose up to the T joint to the main line (about 4m from the gully) so I couldn’t see anything.

Ah, so that would go around the pipe instead of outside, right?

Sorry for resurrecting this but I still haven’t made up my mind. I dig a hole in the patio to see where my pipe joined the common sewer and I found the pipe is covered with concrete. If I remove the gully and the pipe is also covered in concrete, how do I connect to it?

The pump is internal This is the bypass valve https://www.screwfix.com/p/angled-auto-bypass-valve-22mm/8220v?ref=SFAppShare Here is a link to the manual; mine is the 28 version https://www.freeboilermanuals.com/assets/pdf/baxi_disc/Duotec-Combi-HEA-NaturalGas.pdf

Sorry, what do you mean by range rating? The pump is fixed speed and was causing noise in the system so I had to install an external bypass to slow it down. I have done these tests with the bypass set to a minimum to avoid too much hot water going back to the boiler

I have Tado thermostats and valves, the call for heat was permanently on during my tests (no cycling from the thermostat) But that means I cannot use weather compensation as it will try to lower the temperature in warmer days I might as well keep the 60deg all year round

40 deg target temp Turns on at 30 Turns off at 50 Time to get from 30 to 50 is about 10 seconds Time to drop from 50 to 30 maybe 1-2 minutes I also read the manual and put the boiler in calibration mode, where the CH knob regulates the gas flow (rather than regulating the gas flow to achieve a...

Yes, I’ve tried lowering the temperature in small steps, but I cannot make it stay on with 40° flow temperature

Hello, I have a Baxi DuoTec Combi 28 HE and 8 radiators. I normally run it at 60-70 degrees flow temperature, but I wanted to see if I could run it at a lower temperature (can I get itnto condensate more? is my house heat pump ready?) When I set it to 40 degrees the ‘gas’ light turns on while...