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The pack doesn't say anything about glueing, but glueing the joints made it much better while still allowing expansion across 3 upstrairs bedrooms (no thresholds at the doors) Where I want to glue each plank to the concrete is just a 4x3.5m room (downstrairs living room)

I have some engineering wood floor from Wickes; it's the click type mechanism, that I'll install in my downstairs living room I have the same floor upstairs over fibre underlay and despite having levelled the subfloor and glued the click joints with PVA, it still has the odd creak when stepping...

It’s because they’re not locked in position; just a temporary solution anyway

Would both of these method make is more difficult to accidentally unscrew the taps when compared to just PTFE tape?

Yes and they made me laugh; they said I first had to find out how they get in.

Yes, the thread is longer than the previous one

I’ve just replaced these two taps and if I screw them in all the way they are upside down (even if I try without any PTFE); I have to leave 2-3 mm of thread exposed to have them the correct way up Am I missing an obvious trick?

The party wall looks 100% intact; I am a bit more worried by the fact that the external wall cavity provides a route for rats from one property to the other one; I obviously can't see it but is the top of the cavity of an external wall supposed to be open or closed where it meets the roof tiles...

Pretty sure

How can they go from one loft to the next one? Also in my case both adjoining houses are staggered (see picture in my previous post) Anyway I also found the bathroom extractor flexible duct was broken and the outside gravity flaps were missing; maybe they could have gotten into the loft via the...

After having had a look I found they are more likely to be getting through the front of the dry verge and then from the side where each tile overlaps the next one Picture without plastic dry verge taken during reroof

I am checking for rats entry point in my roof as they get in during the winter I’ve found a large gap to the adjacent house which I plan to fill with wire wool and expanding foam I also noticed there are gaps below the tiles (see second picture), I can fit my finger in there; is it worth...

Thanks, I’ve picked up a 8m extendable ladder for £25 on facebook market; tomorrow I’ll get the ladder standoff

I don't need to get on the roof, just clean gutter and get to bathroom extractor height

I need to check for rodents entry points near guttering and also replace a bathroom extractor vent; it's a two storey house and the foldable ladder I have is too short. What is the kind of ladder roofers use? What is it called and where can I find one?

Thank you JW

I have a heating programmer which is missing the square nut where you put your screw in to lock the front in place. I still have the screw, its diameter including the thread is 3.4mm; I’m not sure if it’s an M3 or M4 or maybe an imperial size… does anyone know? I need to buy the correct square nut

I do actually have two ‘dead’ legs on the heating system; I’ve got pipes in place but radiator not fitted yet (but air has been purged with some temporary isolation valves) But is it normal to hear these noises if the heating is not in use?

I have been noticing that when I use the hot water in the bathroom I hear a gurgling noise from the radiator (similar to when you’re filling up the system) I have a combi boiler; I normally hear this noise when I close the tap and I think it coincides with the boiler turning off Obviously...

What happens if you use tablet salt in a Harvey? Surely it dissolves in water the same way?