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I don’t reckon it’d expand anywhere near the full length of the van, and even if it did it’d make zero noticeable difference, due to the very small thermal mass of the van, I think you’d probably have to do something a lot more substantial to have any effect…

I can’t see foam not working tbh as it sticks to everything. and for such small areas it’s not the same as large wall panels and a danger of them coming off whole. Top reveal normally supported by sides anyway which further locks things in place. I would deffo crack on and would not bother...

Yeah. As above, foam/grab adhesive a bit better than board adhesive which I’d avoid if you’re worried about cold spots bridging etc. Foams a game changer for stuff like this where you’re filling big/irregular gaps, sticking stuff together and providing a bit of an insulated layer at the same time

Ask them then come back here for options. If you think it might be a paint, it’s probably not a cartridge gun applied thing like CT1

I did one last year, normal plasterboard then tanked. Came out nicely

The 45/mitre thing will be a bit tricky, but you wouldn’t need to cut the existing, just chamfer the small cuts enough so it sits right. Or for an easier option I’d just use cut pieces of the same tiles to return the vertical face down to the ground, but you lose the colour pattern then…

it’s just an isolated landing horizontal run so I’ve got a bit of leeway in terms of where it sits relative to the stringer, and can fit the post at the other end to line up. So I think it’ll work. I’ll sit the base rail on a plinth if needed…

Nice. Good shout, cheers

Pass. Ordered in to my merchant and need to grab it next week.

That’s the plan, yeah. Maybe a combo of notching both the joist and post. Then some bolts. I think anything less isn’t going to cut it in terms of wobble. It’s a single horizontal landing run so weak at that end.

Yeah square base, which I’ll then cut to give a bolted spliced join to the joist below floor level, can’t think of much else

Means making a hole in the visible section of the veneered post I think?

Actually, I’m now thinking I’ll just cut a big piece out where the X is, and bolt the newel to the joist behind it, and bolt the 2 joist ends together in a few places. Despite the size of that piece, it’s not really doing much, just spans a floor and into an external wall.

Gotta fit a new newel post here, bang on where the X is. Don’t want to hack much out of the (massive) 8x3, as it’s the back half of the house floor joist end I think. Can I do some kind of big dowel/metal rod buried in both the newel and joist? Any bracket raising above floor level is obviously...

My money’s on “totally knackered” over “just a point up required” but each to their own…

It’s totally knackered!

No it’s very common. As you say, aerated inner skin popular, much less so outer skin. Altho in your case with cladding it, not really an issue

They’re normally polytop ring shank nails which are hard to get out. Unfortunately the whole thing doesn’t look like it’s been done great, and that edge trim is meant to be sealed tight down onto the rubber, to stop water getting down onto the (presumably) wooden board behind it. Which hopefully...

I would and have, yes. Although the amount of heat lost downwards, with a carpet and no draughts coming up, may also be up for debate …

8x2 sorry not 6x2. Piece of cake to lay