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Stitch it away with a masonry (SDS) drill. 6mm ish bit, lots of holes, then a chisel to break it up

The square cover might be an untrapped rodding point, which would mean you can’t just stick a grid on as you’d get smells coming up. Can’t quite work out where the slabs come into it if you’re having gravel? Can you just build the lower corner up a bit with some mortar and cause it to drain off...

Given the era and fact that the hairs look long, sounds more like old horse hair plaster. Which figures if it’s been applied to laths (the metal stuff). So fingers crossed. But yeah, get it tested so you know. And asbestos danger is really related to prolonged repeated exposure like handling it...

They tend to need a few mechanical fixings in addition to the dabs.

While I’m not disputing that it’s a potentially grey area, and it’s your house so you want to do the best possible thing, my take on it is there are tens of thousands of 30s places which will have insulated/non insulated dabbed solid walls and are absolutely fine. There will be loads being done...

Wind up thread

S&C render altho a solid choice, can result in a cold wall to the touch, increasing condensation. Have you got room to insulate/insulated plasterboard? If wet plastering I’d probably hardwall it. Gypsum based backing plaster. I don’t personally think a typical 30s house has some crucial need...

Crikey - good luck fella

Why not timber frame it like the vast majority of these are? Easier, probably cheaper, lose less space than a cavity wall. 450mm may not be deep enough for your footings depending on ground. Assume given the size it’s subject to building regs? In which case they’d inspect at various stages like...

Cheers. I think my main issue is as soon as any of it makes its way onto the brick face (easily done, very soft stuff that likes to squeeze out and up when touched) it’s never coming off (sand faced bricks and very sticky mastic). Not such an issue if a bit goes on the lead as it wipes off. I’ll...

For flashing chases in brick. Used lead sealant a few times as seems a better choice than mortar. Never been totally happy with the finish tho, wet finger smoothing it tends to start getting it on the brick face unless you’re very careful, so game over. Anyone do this regularly and got any...

Those doors look relatively chunky, I’d draught proof the hell out of them in conjunction with decent curtains etc. I don’t think the hassle/looks/weirdness of a removable thing is justified by how much difference it’d make…

I’d put it on top of only to save the dust and cost of removal. Just add a few mechanical fixings (screws)

I honestly would say set them into the ground instead. If you use a dry mix, you can mess about with them as long as you like, get some temporary timbers in, or wedge with bits of brick or whatever you like, get them spot on. then tip a bucket of water into it once done and leave it overnight...

Screeding means moving a straight edge in a sawing and tamping motion, along 2 parallel timbers set at the right height. Slope isn’t going to be an issue unless you mix it incredibly wet and it’s only a tiny fall. So like I say, I’d first set your 2 screed “rails” (timbers) at exactly the right...

Don’t really get the bolt down fence either, surely you can just dig down and set them properly, particularly if you’re pouring concrete anyway, seems a no brainer. Can’t you screed the concrete on the shorter span, working off the timber on the right to another timber you set on the left at...

Added to support the purlin mid-span, transferring load to a wall below. I’ve had a SE make an informal recommendation for me to do similar in the past, there seems to be a view that the original design is under-specced in some cases. Presumably made worse by certain heavier roof tiles.

Oh crikey. Seriously, the only thing you need to know is a slightly longer screw will, honestly, I promise, work.

Try firing a screw into one.

Coroline black corrugated sheets can look decent fitted vertically. And dead cheap.