What size screws - Kitchen cabinets on battened wall

[EdTurtle]

Hi all

I have a battened and boarded wall i need to attach kitchen cabinets to (Wall cabinets 900mm tall)

The 'battens' are 3x2 CLS on edge, so a thickness of 38mm, with plasterboard to a total thickness of 50mm. Then skimmed. There is a horizontal length of CLS at the correct height for attaching the cabinet brackets, and it is attached to the wall with 5x70mm screws in brown plugs and PU glue on the wall first. The blocks are Celcon blocks. There are also vertical CLS timbers at 400 centres as well.

Would i be ok with 5x50 screws, which would essentially go through the wall and be pretty much the full depth of timber - or should i go with 5x70 to go into the blocks a bit too? though i suppose then i would need to use rawlplugs too, so only 20mm would be in a plug, not enough so would need 5x100?

Thanks

 

[23vc]

50mm screws. That’s the whole point of battening it, they take the load.
Although given they’re celcon blocks, a 70mm or whatever screw would just fire straight into it so not an issue either.

 

[EdTurtle]

Many thanks, I had thought that maybe 50mm wouldn't quite reach the back of the batten with the thickness of the bracket and plaster included. Will probably do what you said then and use a 60, and just go into the block a bit.

Thanks

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

They may refuse to cut into the block, and jack the wood away from the wall.

Best to keep clear of it, stick with 50mm.

Just check you're allowing for the bracket thickness - in reality the 60 may be better.

 

[EdTurtle]

That was my initial concern, celcon blocks seem to be unpredictable. Then again, if the screws can jack the timber off the wall, would it actually hold the cabinets ok!?

I was going to wait until I have the brackets anyway, and measure them up.

Thanks

 

[23vc]

Try firing a screw into one.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Pointless until you get the brackets.

Drill a 2-3mm pilot hole, screws (and nails) grip much better in a drilled hole as you then get contract all around its circumference. Otherwise you get a split, and the only contact is on the opposite sides of the screw where it actually touches.

 

[EdTurtle]

Pointless until you get the brackets.

Drill a 2-3mm pilot hole, screws (and nails) grip much better in a drilled hole as you then get contract all around its circumference. Otherwise you get a split, and the only contact is on the opposite sides of the screw where it actually touches.

Thanks, that's excellent advice and not something I've ever thought of!

 

[23vc]

Oh crikey. Seriously, the only thing you need to know is a slightly longer screw will, honestly, I promise, work.

 

[EdTurtle]

Thanks, I believe you!

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

You need to, as you already said at the outset, go beyond the wood into the plasterboard. 60mm will probably be fine once you factor in the brackets and the plaster skim between the wood and plsaterboard.

My point is that you shouldn't count on the screw being able to sink into the concrete block, as it may not want to.