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Meths and wire wool. Probably not possible on large area

Try tooth paste. When it's like that you ain't got much choice

Resin worktops go white like that with solvent.. I accidentally put a paint brush down on a resin worktop that I just cleaned with white spirit and it went white. You think that's marble or other? You can tell as stone is cold to the touch. If that is lime then try a lime scale remover but...

Yeah. Sounds like previous paint work. Edge's need a fine fill and sand then paint again

Watch plastering videos and have ago. Bit of sandpaper and filler after If you make mistakes Other way is to skim it with toupret powdered filler and sand smooth. I've done that one walls that didn't need a plaster skim. 2kg box will go along way

Are you going to skim with plaster? I haven't used easyfill for years as I prefer toupret powder filler but yeah. Easyfill will work

You could follow this. 4.30 in. Kirk sisters joists to repair strengthen

Window opening was there before window was fitted. So take window out. Lintel must go further and support so investigate

Lime Mortar. Watch skillbuilder on YouTube talk about lime mortar pointing

Touprelith F will do it. Made by toupret... They have a technical helpline and I'd phone that

I'm going to take a guess. Don't worry about the cracking. Sbr to seal and get on with it. I've seen floors made up. I remember one used a cement and water as a primer brushed on. Modern way is SBR. Alternative is too much hassle.

On single chain closer which you don't have you jam open with the metal slotted plate placed behind a chain link. Unscrew door side. Turn to tighten or slacken. Screw back on.. That one with double chian I'll guess you turn slotted centre screw. I assume you need two chain jamming plates to get...

I just googled it for amusement. https://www.tapmagician.co.uk/NSManufacturersShoppingSelect.aspx?SA06 That fit? National Shower Spares I use for that sort of thing which is local to me. If they can't help give up...

Getting behind that at the top is going to be a nightmare. Sorry can't help with price. Just get a quote. You want glass or wood?

My old transit I filled with diesel. I don't enjoy doing them having had problems with it leaking or engine not starting. I think there is different ways to to do it but some go for the way that works best hence different advice. Official way that may give you problems or unofficial that works

You can used board adhesive to stick to lintel if metal or concrete. Metal has dents or holes for adhesive to stick.. I often use CT1 or similar and a few blobs of board adhesive as the CT1 will grab hold. I've also used foam. So you have options.. As for thermal bridging you can fill holes...

Mine was just the riser bar. Money was tight at the time. If I was to replace now I'd just get the original Mira and fit. Can you not get a direct replacement? I don't know about your specific setup and cutting

I bought a cheap set from Screwfix to replace my Mita which im pleased with. I cut the vertical post so that the fixings matched the holes in tiles... Is that what you are taking about?

Kirk has a few videos showing how to board around windows. Pick one and watch. Here is one...

Condensation. You need a dehumidifier or 2. We run one upstairs and one down for about 4 hours every evening. If you dry washing inside in winter use a dehumidifier in the same room. Deal with condensation and the problem will go away. Line the inside of windows with 12.5mm plasterboard