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@tony1851, any thoughts on the above to double check please, would greatly appreciate as I'm going to order the plates tonight Thanks!

I will try and get a diagram done today. I'm not that great at drawing but will attempt. I have most certainly taken on your advice to tie and I will be tying out the roof and to the concrete floor where possible for belt and braces I have now cut out the pockets/dropped two courses ready for...

@tony1851 just wondering what you thought on the above question? Thanks

Thanks for all the help on this. One last quick question. As mentioned I have pillars on both sides but they do not match up in location. If you had a choice to rest the steel on one of those pillars, would you choose to do it on the taller 7.3 concrete block wall or the shorter brick wall...

It's about a 10 mm Gap. You sure I wouldn't be better off with some sort of a shower seal as opposed to siliconing that size gap?

I just removed all the old silicone from my shower tray to redo it, but I've noticed that there is a very large gap between the tile and my shower tray. What are my options here? Should I pack the whole joint with silicone all the way through to the back and then let that dry flush with the...

Thanks Tony, all makes sense. The one question I have is that the steel has to have a minimum bearing of 100mm right. And so it would be on the outside face of these brick walls. Could this not lead to rust, mould, condensation and cold bridging? Do you have suggestions here on what then to...

Yes indeed, No legitimate paperwork, just papers of information on the work carried out. I'll try to sketch it out and go from there I guess

Thanks, changed to UB

Shall I just go up and unbolt the gallows?

So as some of you may have gleaned from my other post on RSJ and piers for the garage, I've ended up with a home that's half finished, and lots of "paperwork" on what's been done, and it's status. I'm about to consider the loft extension. Ive been told that previous renovations removed the top...

Thanks Tony, This is what I'm working with here: And some bits below just to clarify so I understand fully. And answer your last comments. Brick wall is 2.3m tall, the other block wall is 3.3m tall (it's built up from lower garden ground) but still at the same top level all the way round...

Also to add, the wall as you can see in the photos in the first post, does have stiffener single pillars. So I'm guessing that helps stop the inward outward collapsing I'm thinking about

Not at all

Should I worry about the single skin wall collapsing outward or inward rather than being crushed? If the steel is sat on top of it on either the plate or padstone, does it need to be bolted down? Or does the entire roof just need to be strapped down as normal?

Yes pretty much, opening is much bigger and I expect will need a steel above it. Joists will run from back wall to beam above garage door opening, because right side is wall facing garden

To give current standing. Front is open for double garage door - this will I assume be the same steel as for the centre of the building carrying roof/splitting roof in half The span from side to side is 5.7m The span from front to back is 5.7m

Building is 5.7 x 5.7. Beam will carry "both sides" of the flat roof /split in half ... I assume this doubles the 32.4kn though and changes calcs? if not, do I need to worry at all about lateral stability?

Thanks So you'd sit the steel straight onto e.g. 300 x 100 x 100 padstone on the single skin wall? Is that even enough beam sitting on the wall (100mm?) Or would you go for UC pillars/posts?

Thanks for this! I assume if this is concurred this is fine for both the midpoint joist support of the roof and the garage door opening? The "documents" I have don't have any details on them, they are handwritten copies of something, but there is an assumption of a 1.5-1.8kn/m² design load...