Search results

It is only necessary to apply the fungicide to the areas with algae. I have no idea why they added it to the paint. Most masonry paints have a small amount of fungicide in them. Powdery parts are normally sealed with stabilising solution, not fungicide. Which paints have they used?

The yellow stuff looks paint. The sticky stuff is probably wet paste. I would recommend using a thick lining paper.

Edit- sorry, I meant to say both surfaces with water

I am not a plumber... you could temporarily remove the diffuser (net thing) with a spanner and see if the problem persists.

You can get SBR for about £20 incl delivery. It is more expensive than PVA, but I wouldn't call it expensive. I guess it is all relative though. I have only done dot and dab once. I haven't tried the expanding foam though. If you use it, spray both surfaces, it aids both adhesion and curing.

Sorry, got distracted. @Wayners ' advice regarding Guardz should (hopefully) be fine. I would be inclined to sand/scrape away the paint, but I have expensive sanders and lovely Olfa scrapers... And, ultimately, I get to charge the customer, so I am not out of pocket. Oh, and that isn't me...

As per @Wayners ' post. Contract matt emulsions are designed for damp plaster that hasn't fully dried yet. They contain very little latex/acrylic and allow any residual moisture to escape. They are not suitable as primers for regular emulsion. The mist coat is supposed to reduce the level of...

You can do it yourself. Rake out the pointing. Dust it off. I use chemical anchor fixing (the type that you use in a skeleton gun). From memory, the bar should span 3 bricks either side of the crack. I use them to deal with cracks in stone window sills. The internal cracks- I would enlarge...

It looks like a RCD.

After fitting a few LED flood lights for a customer which failed pretty quickly, someone here recommended a Vtac one. It has a Samsung driver and has a 5 year warranty. It was recommended by someone here. (Apologies to the person that recommended it- I have forgotten who it was). eg...

No offence taken. With tall Victorian skirtings, I often use two pack filler where the thin edge of the skirting meets the plaster if it has been mullered over the 100+ years. If I can see any evidence of bounce, I will apply more fixings, or squirt in expanding foam to lock the skirting in...

I am a regular contributor to this site... If you don't get a satisfactory answer here, I would recommend going over to https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/ (and use the appropriate sub forum) If you do so, I hope you come back and tell us what the outcome was. Best of luck.

Photos might help.

Like @Wayners I am a professional decorator. I use about 10-15L of 2 pack per year (sometimes more, sometimes less). It is pretty pants at accommodating movement, eg hairline cracks in between the underside of coving and the wall. It would also be a PITA to sand without damaging the...

Your roller frame in image 1 is an extremely cheap one. They are horrible. They flex whilst you roll and if you decide to use an extension pole, you can only use one with a push fit bayonet. I have seen the frame fall of poles in the past and if they don't fall off, sometimes they twist whilst...

Trim would be the quickest option. You could hack away whatever they used to fill the void, then insert expanding foam, cut away the excess and then fill/sand... but it will take much longer. As an aside, you seem to have evidence of slight condensation on upper part.

I used to have a few sets of Torx security bits. One day a customer asked me to replace the flex on his mum's (green) Bosch hedge trimmer. All the body screws were regular Torx screws... except for the one 50mm deep in the body, which was the torx security type with the pin in the middle. I paid...

The shiny marks may just be the BIN shining/grinning through. My advice would be to apply more emulsion. I would expect 2 coats of Dulux Trade emulsion to suffice, other brands may require a third coat. Nevertheless, the caulk should be stable now.

From the images, I cannot see a problem with the laminated chipboard worktop. The discolouration on the silicone suggests that too much water is left sitting when you wash up.

Which oven do you have? I am not an electrician, but I can't see anything wrong with you hard wiring in the cable. If it makes life easier, you could take the existing wiring and run that into a back box and socket (assuming that there is sufficient space behind the oven).