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Cheers for the reply. AFAIK, all of the props get moved up as they construct each floor. Admittedly, my photo wasn't brilliant, nevertheless, I do not understand why they would have ripped out one. The 7 floors above still have the concrete pillars in place. I am still confused as to why they...

Thanks, I didn't know that. I just assumed that the toothbrush would be drawing less than a shaver.

Meths will soften the emulsion, unfortunately, if the handrail is french polished (doesn't look like it is), the meths will soften the polish, equally if it is waterbased varnish, it will soften the varnish. As per @foxhole 's post, emulsion should be pretty easy to remove. I would start by...

Electric toothbrushes still need to be charged.

There is a 20ish story new build under construction near where I am current living. I noticed that someone decided to pull backwards one of the thinner concrete supports. Why would that happen? Just wondering...

Spring toggles have their place, but if you need to unscrew the fitting, the spring part falls into the cavity and is lost. Based on advice from other people here, I started using the Timco Zip Toggles. The downside is that you need a fitting that can accept a 6mm machine thread screw. And yes...

Good point. The OP, potentially, could use any old fixings and a suitable "grab adhesive" to lock the baton in place (assuming that they are not planning to stand on the shelves).

No need for primer. https://www.howdens.com/-/media/howdens/assets/clh_asset_products/clh_asset_levela_108973/clh_asset_levelb_110622/ass_25418277.pdf I personally sand those kind of doors with 180-240 grit first, it helps to eliminate the slight texture left after the factory finish. I would...

I would go with a light weight filler such as RedDevil OneTime. Apply it, leave it for a few hours and then lightly sand it with 180-220 grit paper. The dust from it does not become statically charged and stick to everything (unlike powder based fillers). The stuff is so soft that you can smooth...

Those cracks look like they are only 0.1-0.2mm. Just roll or brush over them. If you are using a mini-roller, roll over each crack, wait a while (depends on the temperature), then do a wet on wet coat, it will enable you apply a thicker coat. Don't do it too soon, you may end up pulling the...

I absolutely hate those ball fixings. I have come across so many that spit water out of the front when you try to turn them off. I have also, once, experienced on which still let water pass through even when turned to 90 degrees. Long story short. I now pay a premium for Pegler lever valves...

I don't recall seeing that particular mechanism, but as @Wayners seems to be suggesting, often inserting a screw driver into the crosshead in the recess releases the mechanism from the fitting on the draw front.

I am not a plumber... but if you are talking about an isolating valve... I see no problem with loosening the two nuts to orientate the valve and then tighten it back up. As @accelerator said. It would help proper plumbers to reply if you post an image.

I get your point. Those kind of cracks can often be hidden with with masonry paint alone. Yes, they often/probably will reappear but if the house sells before that happens, I don't see the point in paying for a proper job that will last 10 or 15 years (or longer).

I used to use Dulux Trade oil based eggshell when painting on site. I added Owatrol oil to it to help maintain a wet edge. I applied the paint with Anza pad pads (the ones with no foam backing, just short pile fibres). Unfortunately, they are extremely difficult to get hold of these days. I used...

I decorate for a living... I spent many year specialising in painting cabinets. Water based paints will soften if splattered with oils, and that includes oils in your fingers if you regularly touch the paintwork. Oil based paints will be more durable but will take longer to cure. 2K paints...

Why bother if the house is gonna be sold in the next couple of months? When presented with those kind of cracks, I use an angle grinder to open up the crack and then brush in dilute SBR. I then gun in Toupret Flex and Fill. I let it shrink back and then fill with Toupret Touprelith F. And...

If the house is being sold soon. Masonry paint alone will suffice. It should be good for a few months. If need be, throw some builders sand at the paint on the cracks and stipple it with a brush if the cracks are still slightly visible. I don't think you will need to though.

Suitable for vertical wood surfaces that require protection from the suns UV rays That said they have a range of coloured exterior oils which do not say vertical only...

I assumed that an RCD would trip faster than a MCB and offer greater protection. Years ago an electrician friend of mine was complaining about a builder who had wired in a series of plastic LED down lights and that he had snipped off all of the earths as the cable ran from one light to the next...