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i thought the bins where made in somewhere like germany or poland so db could be perhaps german bin ??

in my humble opinion the last thing you should be doing is treating all the same as it will turn into a gloopy mishmash off nothing ;) celebrate the differences treat the woods according to use and levels off wear expected experiment with different finishes even on the same wood in different...

its to do with trip hazards a slightly different issue in the link below but shows how very small differences can cause problems

i would try an experiment by adding an extra step place a bit off wood or similar on the path to pad out to the bottom cement line level a slab using bricks at the front now this will tell you iff the rise is getting more or less if its getting more then the only way to sort properly is to...

to my eyes it looks like the wood curves down dead level with top off the other worktop so the only "V"is the shaped edge on the grey worktop without an actual gap between them?? if that's the case it will just be the odd crumb or small spill, so a damp cloth or soft 2" paint brush would surely...

general comments if you secure the back firmly to the wall along a large area you are opening a can off worms the floor and wall will never be exactly in line square and level so you will distort the cabinet often lifting the base off the floor in a corner or two this will both put strain on all...

into the wall behind with say 20/30mm spacers unconnected to the cabinet just through holes at the back

remove a threshold strip in a doorway or where the carpet joins the flooring to have a look ?? if no screws visible, the top may clip off

my thoughts bacteria germs and disease cannot survive in a hostile environment it needs moisture to thrive they are killed by dryness salty sugary acid alkaline heat sun cold even killed by excessive moisture and when it says kills 999.9% germs its usually because it has a soap 'basic cleaning...

find a hetas or other scheme fitter, ask them for guidance for the donkey work and let them install and certify otherwise your flying blind trying to go the seemingly cheaper route can be the most expensive route as you need to comply with what the person passing the installation deems to be...

the best thing you can do is ask the person you are paying to certify it what they require or iff your going the building control route for certification make sure you tell them first before you start have a look at part "J"...

i would wet it and overspring it the other way about half the amount as in assuming the high point is around 20mm flip it and place a bit off timber between 8 to 12mm under the high spot and clamp the ends to the bench having said that as its old wood you may just be stuck with what you have...

is this a wall mounted shelve ?? and are you planning on intermediate mid to front off shelve support?? always plan bow up so load is your friend

ok i have loads off time on my hands 6ah batteries 1.1kg loaded up the saw it took 6 batteries to overcome the spring pressure and friction to plunge so around 12kg without any added human intervention weight wise then removed one battery it stayed plunged so needed a further battery...

with my dewalt plunge i agree high value then clamp but i never ever clamp on sheet material and never had a slip iff you think about it you have the say 5-7kg saw with batteries with perhaps 4.5kg spring pressure trying to lift the motor up from the plunge so thats around 11kg pushing down as...

i will often cut off strips for drawer boxes or other strips from say 12mm mdf i will cut them 2mm oversize with a track saw then cut them to the correct length then pass over the table saw to correct width to halfway then flip and do the other half for longer bits can greatly reduce the fore...

dont know iff anybody has said when using a track saw you mark at the cut point lay the track on the bit you want covering half the pencil line so when you cut it takes out half the pencil mark giving you 100% accuracy if you choose to cut on the main board with the offcut being your strip you...

first 3 cuts free can give you loads off strips first cut 3 boards cut in half second 6 strips third another 6 so 12 now what you can actually do will depend on machine capacity [thickness wise ] and the operator being willing to restack the bits but worth a thought

assuming you are working with a length stop have you thought about cutting multiples at once in the same or different orientation or in deed a multiple off both to fit the cut area off the blade and motor clearance limits also its possible to let the trigger go just before the full cut and aim...

can you take a picture at the doorway with the door open showing the about 90-100mm finished concrete to finished floor level ?? i also assume the fixings[nail or screws] are only at 600mm centres and thats the joist spacings ?? also worth checking if the bounce is through dipping rather than...