Tracksaw advice

[foxhole]

Not if the track is on the piece you want

I referred to cutting narrow strips , ie narrower than track.

 

[aveatry]

first 3 cuts free can give you loads off strips
first cut 3 boards cut in half
second 6 strips
third another 6 so 12

now what you can actually do will depend on machine capacity [thickness wise ]
and the operator being willing to restack the bits but worth a thought

Yes I have done it and they dont like stacking but will do it out of laziness - espicually near to a lunch break !

 

[aveatry]

I referred to cutting narrow strips , ie narrower than track.

That's where your table saw comes in - providing its not a 8x4 sheet --- that's where your track or circular saw comes in, then put it on your table.

 

[lostinthelight]

I referred to cutting narrow strips , ie narrower than track.

I don't find that a problem at all, I've split dozens of 3.6m 6X1's , each into 3 battens

 

[big-all]

dont know iff anybody has said
when using a track saw you mark at the cut point lay the track on the bit you want covering half the pencil line so when you cut it takes out half the pencil mark giving you 100% accuracy
if you choose to cut on the main board with the offcut being your strip you must add the blade thickness to get an accurate cut
so iff you want 100mm you add the blade thickness say 1.7mm gives you 101.7 so when you place the track half on the pencil mark you then place the blade in the l01.7mm point cutting back to 100mm

 

[big-all]

That's where your table saw comes in - providing its not a 8x4 sheet --- that's where your track or circular saw comes in, then put it on your table.

i will often cut off strips for drawer boxes or other strips from say 12mm mdf
i will cut them 2mm oversize with a track saw
then cut them to the correct length then pass over the table saw to correct width to halfway then flip and do the other half for longer bits can greatly reduce the fore and aft overhang needed

 

[foxhole]

That's where your table saw comes in - providing its not a 8x4 sheet --- that's where your track or circular saw comes in, then put it on your table.

Yes I know.

 

[lostinthelight]

dont know iff anybody has said
when using a track saw you mark at the cut point lay the track on the bit you want covering half the pencil line so when you cut it takes out half the pencil mark giving you 100% accuracy
if you choose to cut on the main board with the offcut being your strip you must add the blade thickness to get an accurate cut
so iff you want 100mm you add the blade thickness say 1.7mm gives you 101.7 so when you place the track half on the pencil mark you then place the blade in the l01.7mm point cutting back to 100mm

Similar to post #17, the other thing worth mentioning on having the track on the required piece is there would be no point in having a splinter strip otherwise.

 

[Wayners]

Is everyone forgetting. Op wants to cut 8x4 sheets.

 

[opps]

Of course we all love new toys but not having ever seen one in use I dont know if I can justify the price given that it wouldnt get used that often afterwards
Any thoughts?

You can hire it or sell it on after.

I still think the cheapest option might be to find a proper timber merchant (not a DIY shed), preferably one with a wall saw.

Other advantages- you don't have to lug 8 by 4 sheets through the house.

My festool guide rails are clamped from the underside of the rail. I need to elevate the boards by about a foot to be able to tighten the clamps. I would never consider not clamping a hardwood worktop, and to be honest, I wouldn't want to not clamp the rail even for 18mm OSB if I am working within 0.5mm tolerances. Clamping, unclamping is going to add an extra few minutes per cut. But that would be the case with using a regular circular saw, and with the track saw, you don't need to worry about deviance on the lead in to and out of the cut.

I have seen jigs for repetitive cuts when using both track saws and regular saws, but have never tried one.

Personally, I wouldn't want to feed a 8 by 4 through a small table saw.

 

[Scally-Ho]

You can hire it or sell it on after.

I still think the cheapest option might be to find a proper timber merchant (not a DIY shed), preferably one with a wall saw.

Other advantages- you don't have to lug 8 by 4 sheets through the house.

I find myself agreeing with you there @opps I couldn't justify forking out just for a few cuts. I'm lucky with a very large barn for my workshop, so I have bought cheap from bankruptcy sales and have additions I seldom use, but find them invaluable when I do use them. My Koolcut wall saw was my best buy ever along with several other items from a widow who have to clear out and move due to pressure from her bank. Also, at my advanced years, anything to make my life easier has to be obtained or fully retire to my recliner chair, and that would most probably finish me off

 

[big-all]

You can hire it or sell it on after.

I still think the cheapest option might be to find a proper timber merchant (not a DIY shed), preferably one with a wall saw.

Other advantages- you don't have to lug 8 by 4 sheets through the house.

My festool guide rails are clamped from the underside of the rail. I need to elevate the boards by about a foot to be able to tighten the clamps. I would never consider not clamping a hardwood worktop, and to be honest, I wouldn't want to not clamp the rail even for 18mm OSB if I am working within 0.5mm tolerances. Clamping, unclamping is going to add an extra few minutes per cut. But that would be the case with using a regular circular saw, and with the track saw, you don't need to worry about deviance on the lead in to and out of the cut.

I have seen jigs for repetitive cuts when using both track saws and regular saws, but have never tried one.

Personally, I wouldn't want to feed a 8 by 4 through a small table saw.

with my dewalt plunge i agree high value then clamp
but i never ever clamp on sheet material and never had a slip
iff you think about it you have the say 5-7kg saw with batteries with perhaps 4.5kg spring pressure trying to lift the motor up from the plunge so thats around 11kg pushing down as you cut possibly more as when you push its also in a downwards motion

just make sure the track and and board are clear off crud and dust

 

[opps]

As soon as you've tried a trackie, you'll be hooked, then you'll wonder how you managed without one.

Big time. I seldom use a planer on doors any more, just the track saw.

 

[mrrusty]

What is it you need accurate strips for? With OSB you're not going to be bothered about chipping, as you would with a laminate board, so one of the advantages of a track saw is not needed. If it was me, I would have the saw horses set up with some sacrificial 3x2's on top, sheet on top of that and just use the circular saw and fence - reasonably accurate., and good enough for most things. Surely if you need super-accuracy, OSB isn't the right material? I have a track saw, and it's great when you need the accuracy and finish, but here?

 

[big-all]

with my dewalt plunge i agree high value then clamp
but i never ever clamp on sheet material and never had a slip
iff you think about it you have the say 5-7kg saw with batteries with perhaps 4.5kg spring pressure trying to lift the motor up from the plunge so thats around 11kg pushing down as you cut possibly more as when you push its also in a downwards motion

just make sure the track and and board are clear off crud and dust

ok i have loads off time on my hands
6ah batteries 1.1kg loaded up the saw it took 6 batteries to overcome the spring pressure and friction to plunge so around 12kg without any added human intervention weight wise
then removed one battery it stayed plunged so needed a further battery removed[down to 4] to give to the spring pressure 'friction and motor weight