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Just because the OP says that doesn't necessarily mean it's true. The OP is keeping his cards very close to his chest. He won't tell us what temp the room stat is set to or what type of boiler he has and what temperature setting he has on that, and watches us floundering around trying to work...

The thread you refer to is known as ½" (half inch) female, not 15mm. You therefore want something with a ½" male thread.

The boiler in heating mode cycles from off to on in 3.5 mins, so about 5 mins from off to on sounds about right allowing for a lag waiting for return water temperature to drop.

Automatic By-pass Valve. If you have TRVs (Thermostatic Rad Valves) on the rads (radiators) then you need a by-pass to ensure a minimum flow can take place to dissipate heat from boiler. The Betacom has an internal ABV, so no worries on that score.

Good point. Probably depends on whether the ABV is integral to boiler or external. Manufacturer's instructions should be followed on that point.

The new pipe (32mm, not 35mm) does not have to follow the same route as the old pipe. You can choose a route that minimises costs and enters the house where it suits you. Cost mainly arises from digging trench, so depends on distance and material to be dug though.

You're not supposed to post email addresses on here, only in your profile, like I said! (Why can't people follow simple instructions?) The mods will take it out pretty quickly if they're on the ball tonight. Anyway I sent the PDF.

No, you don't add the hot water load and heating load together. The Combi boiler does either one or the other, not both together. therefore the boiler is sized for the bigger load, which is always the hot water load. Many houses require 22mm pipework but in some cases it's because plumbers are...

Combi boilers require an output of at least 24 kW, preferably more, to deliver hot water to the taps. The heating load is unlikely to be anywhere near as much unless you have a very big and drafty house. Your heating load is probably no more than 5 kW (easily carried by 15mm tube). Hailsham...

It might help if you actually read what has already been posted -

My crystal ball shows me a star, ..... a green looking star .....could that be something to do with your boiler?

Replace any other wearing parts while you're at it - the diaphragm, O ring seals, etc. If you include an email address in your profile I could send you a PDF of the diverter valve.

Take it apart and see what's wrong, if you think you're up to it. New bits might be around £20 instead of maybe £200 to have a new diverter fitted professionally.

New diverter valve unless you like fiddling around with the bits of the old one. Rocker arms break and seals leak.

You need a new diaphragm.

Check that the flue is in place and that no one has attempted to open the combustion chamber. Also the PCBs are very prone to fail on these so expect to pay £130+ for a new one, plus finding someone competent to repair it!

Your water company are obliged to provide a water supply, which they apparently haven't been doing since Friday. Call them out to sort it out.

Your hot water cylinder must be fed from a tank. If you feed it directly from the mains it would probably burst and flood your house, which you wouldn't want, would you. :wink:

I think they might have some to spare in Saudi Arabia. :roll: