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I found that a gentle filing off the mounting points on the brackets would make them smoothly interchangeable.

the enamel, being a glass based covering, will not be attacked.

I went with the Aldi/Ferrex for my power tools, I am an amateur, so do not really need to have that many power tools available, they have worked well, except for the multitool, I need to find the purchase receipt for that one as it keep undoing itself every time I use it! Hving a shared battery...

chainsaw is the wrong tool for a multitude of springy stems, much too dangerous I think.

loppers and a pruning saw, but reduce the faces as much as possible with a hedge trimmer first, you can get the ladder closer that way and do not have to lean in quite as much.

well the granite wall is non porous so it will take longer to dry out anyway

I also recommend brick acid, use an old toothbrush to scrub the stains, will lift much quicker that way, and dont forget to wash off the tiles and yourself afterwards.

could it be a small pipe coming in from about 4 oclock, using top of picture as 12 o clock? otherwise cannot work out what is at the bottom of that drain. If you change it then you would need a soakaway installing, lots of digging and mess for that option.

brick acid will dissolve the cement that binds it together, but you seem to have got past that now.

cant tell on the rest from photos given, but the render to the left of drawn arrow in pic 2 is potentiall bridging the dpc on that wall. you need some more careful investigation to find out what is there on the rest, any of us could not be certain about what is there from current pics.

sort out a few blocks of wood at the right height to support radiator, loosen ens fittings, rotate rad 90 degrees so it is flat on blocks of wood prepared, retighten the rad fittings to stop leaks, then fill and paint/paper as required.

A friend worked briefly in russia a few years ago in a russian hospital, the canteen for staff had a bar, vodka WAS popular with the surgeons at lunchtime... Anyway, recent changes to the breeding of canabis plants has made it worse for causing psychosis, that was driven by smugglers wanting to...

the damp droof course is above the finish to the render, so that bit with the two hand painted arrows on it is bridging and allowing the damp to flow back up and into the wall inside I think. the render should really finish at the line of the dpc pointed out in picture 2 I also think, but that...

anyone with trig and pythagoras could use maxima as a totally free app for phone/pc/mac, it does all symbolic maths.

shoo goo is solvent based and works well for troublesome shoe repairs/rebuiding of sole/profile etc.

It will most likely be a lime plaster with horsehair added for strength, so just an alkaline dust, it will all be chalk by now.

Also remember that yew keeps growing for quite a while, look up the fortingall yew in scotland... https://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/fortingall-yew-p2568631

they get blocked with fat, run a hot cycle with it empty and a charge of washing soda in the dispenser for the dishwasher detergent.

you need to fix the "between 1-2ft underground part, the damp should slowly go away on its own then. Lime mortar being softer and flowing more than gypsum usually does not crack off.

Cement dust sealer is "Waterglass" and does make the surface shinier by putting a glass coat on the cement, should work there too