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If the concrete is flat and stable, why not just use it?

As title, insetting a sink into a 38mm wooden worktop, 980x480 cutout, what is the minimum width I should have at front or back so that it is strong enough to manhandle into place?

Knotweed usually tries to go taller quicker than that, try rubbing the leaves, it does have the look of the mint family.

Well that is certainly a conifer root, so will have lots of resin coming out for quite a while. the weed and feed would be washed away by the rain too.

I was thinking it is a scraper, the edge is kept very sharp otherwise it does not work properly.

i used 5" of celotex for the conservatory, pushed up between the rafters on the inside, then plasterboarded and then painted over the double glazing where the infill was used. It helped, but still expensive to heat.

If it is solvent fit, then a repair would be quite easy to do, clean it down and stick on an offcut of pvc over the split or hole...

It needed a cap on the top of the uprights, and more rounded on the top to stop water pooling there, just make sure the replacement doesnt make those mistakes

The windows for log cabins need to allow growth and shrinkage of the logs through the seasons. they also need to be kept dry and painted properly. It looks to me as if the primer has lifted there on most of those bits, so cannot tell if it is untreated timber or badly prepared. Ours has similar...

You would be best to use an old toothbrush to keep the acid only on the slabs, not on the mortar, rinse straight after and the mortar stays good.

small holes are ok in iweb joist, look on manufacturers sites for exact limits to where and sizes. Must be worth a very carefully drilled hole there to have a closer look.

A deep infill of rubble will take a long time to fully settle, there will be air gaps scattered through it for many years, so allow for regular infill until it fully stabilises.

The bagging of waste wet is only really needed for linseed oil etc, grease is just a true soap and a heavy mineral oil mixed together.

The getting started problem is having to pull the blades open by hand even before trying to cut the pipe, then trying to get the ratchet mechanism to engage, I think it might be missing something and not prepared to put up with it any more.

I also bought one of those a week ago, used it twice and it is going back. Impossible to get started, but mine does give a clean cut at least.

unfortunately yes, because it has to line up with the other piece

Well they actually replaced the top instead of repairing it, so it had ended ok I guess. Still need to go through coating the new top and hope this does not happen again. I suppose the pocket needs a flatter edge towards the join to reduce the opening force applied to the join after it is...

wet and pushed in is much better, the paving expert site says to make it stiff enough not to stain your hands when you squeeze a small lump. brushed in dry ends up much softer, I didpart of my patio steps with brushed and it has failed much quicker than the rest that is still strong.

The worktop was cut by them, I asked for 4 slots as the top was the 72cm front to back and needs more clamping force, they gave me three, and the clamps have not yet been tightened. I needed access to things and was not ready to do it straight away, the day job keeps me quite busy really.

Well they relented and have now taken it for repair, I know wood is a natural material and moves, but this was well sealed, kept dry and has still split, so that end of the log must have been wetter than the rest. With a home repair, with an 80mm split in a piece of wood 720mm wide, I would not...