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Haven't tried setting the pump to max speed yet. Might reveal something I guess. No I didn't get the boiler checked so perhaps it is over-firing. But what does this mean? I thought it simply meant the thermostat was set too high and that the excessively high temps inside would start to damage...

Some history... http://www.diynot.com/forums/plumbing/oops-oil-boiler.428202/ Well the chuffing noise is kettling, I guess. And it's still going on, but the boiler and system seem to be working fine. So I'm trying to understand kettling a bit more. Am I right in thinking the chuff is...

My guess would be the drain too. Do you know where it drains to? Use a hosepipe and see how quickly it backs up and overflows. If it's not draining properly you need to sort it out.

Unfortunately it can, as sometimes a valve can close without tripping the microswitch.

Well I had a look at it this morning. I renewed the nozzle yesterday, and the photocell is clear. However, there was a bit of sooty dust etc in the air intake, and some fresh soot inside. I wonder if somehow it was sucking in its own exhaust - ie the flue maybe doesn't form a good seal against...

No, it fires up fine. The noise seems to start happening once it's been running for a while - several minutes at least, but I haven't had the chance to really work out when it happens yet.

Ok well blast tube arrived and fitted, and boiler is working again. But I think I might have to call the man in - I can hear the occasional "whumf" while it's firing. It looks like the flue is a bit sooty inside, but I'll have an inside look in the morning. I've read somewhere that these...

Could the feed from the tank be blocked? If so, when you bleed air from the pump, could you be sucking the water down the expansion pipe and then a new whole load of air?

Thanks John, I think it might be "ceramic fibre insulation board" - got a few names to call and ask about it now. It could do with a new piece on the door too, if I end up having to get some, and have some spare. Hopefully blast tube arrives tomorrow and I can have heating again!

Thanks for the idea. I think the existing one will hold up although it has some cracks, but I can check it periodically. But I could make a replacement if it's possible to buy a block of the stuff. It's very lightweight and soft. Does anyone know what it is and where I might try to get a bit?

It was very sooty, but I'm pretty sure it only built up recently - after the firebrick had fallen against the blast tube. I'll be changing the nozzle as well at the blast tube, but if the exhaust looks smoky or smells funny I'll get someone to check it. Thanks.

I'm in Herefordshire. Hopefully all will work ok with the new blast tube, but thanks for your thoughts - i will add new boiler to my list of things i need, but can't afford yet.

It's a Camray 15/19 external wall mounted. It has a Riello 40 G2 burner. I think it was installed in 2002, judging by the date scribbled on the burner label. Had been working fine all winter - just got a bit noisy and smoky in the last few days.

The boiler was getting a little noisy and smoky, so I took a look..... It would seem that the fire brick has toppled onto the blast tube, and the blast tube has burnt down, producing piles of soot, but still running. If the last service engineer (before I moved here) had secured the brick...

is is Pieris?

Tricky decision eh! Just think of all that mess, loads of trips to the tip, dust everywhere, collateral damage to adjacent walls, ceiling... Or just accept that's what's required for a proper job. You might end up being able to use 40mm insulation with 9mm plasterboard. Interested in...

Ok thanks for the info. It all seemed to work again this morning, so I'll keep my eye on it. I'm sure somethings not right though - as you say, maybe a wire's popped out somewhere...

External oil boiler. Pump, valve and timer in airing cupboard. Heating has been working fine. Went away for two nights, came back to a cold house. Room stat and timer calling for heat but nothing firing. Flicked switch in external boiler and all started working again. (The illuminated...

I think there should be a flexible washer under the big "nut" that squashes up when you tighten it onto the lower part. Then you wouldn't get water leaking from it.

You want to fix the board to the timber uprights (studs). Finding them might be difficult, but you can drill lots of holes to find them, or use a stud detector, or bit of bent wire through the hole. Use one bit of ply (prob 12mm). Make it big enough to fit to at least two studs. You could get...