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I’ll try and pull it out. The other bit I’m not clear about is that the adjustment white thing that goes onto the spline shown in picture 1 doesn’t fit on the new part. And it didn’t come with one, so there will be no scalding protection (I cannot set a max temperature)

That’s the temperature control

Yes. They sold me both. I imagine there is a similar piece inside the shower bar that I failed to remove, I briefly tried with some pliers with it wouldn’t budge. Do you mean I need to open the shower bar on the opposite side by removing the flow handle? Also, there was a white plastic bit...

I’m trying to fix a thermostatic shower. The shop that sold it to me originally provided this part, which is slightly different from the original one. First photo: original cartridge Second photo: what the replacement cartridge looks like Third photo: what is this part? With the replacement...

Ok, I’ve let some more water out and there is water flow now and it’s getting hot. I thought airlocks were an urban legend.

Yes, when I bled the air, it’s full of cold water

Hello, I just finished renovating my downstairs toilet and I just tried to turn on the heating. There isn’t any noise of water circulation and the radiator doesn’t get hot. I have individual Tado valves on all radiators (except this one) so I just have one of them calling for heat. The obvious...

I don’t know. It wasn’t particularly cheap at £175. They have a website and a contact email so I just sent them an email. What’s the best way to apply silicone to the base? Just put the pan in place and then push the silicone in the gap?

Has anyone here installed a Nes toilet? I picked up this one from B&Q: https://www.diy.com/departments/nes-home-bella-round-close-coupled-cistern-pan-and-seat/6545514194967_BQ.prd A few issues I’ve run into: The instructions for fixing it to the floor are printed on the plastic bag...

I ended up just cutting out the section of tile. I didn’t make as much dust as I was expecting. I found too many conflicting information of whether it was advisable to drill through or even glue the plate to the tile

I was able to remove the tile without damaging any other. The membrane seems still bonded to the subfloor, still safe to use?

I’m relocating the door in the photo to the right. The existing wall has already been removed, and I’ll be installing a pocket door system in its place. To do this, I need to build a new stud frame and leave about 20 cm of bottom plate on the left side. Would it be acceptable to drill through...

The tile will be discarded, unless it can be used somewhere else. What trowel should I use below and over the membrane?

Schluter DITRA 25 I can see around 5mm between the concrete and the tile (comprising a layer of adhesive, the membrane and another layer of adhesive)

So should I aim at removing the tile with the decoupling membrane and not attempting to leave the membrane in place?

I’m renovating my bathroom and I’m taking out the stud wall to install a pocket door. The door opening will be more to the right. I’ll be installing the same tiles as the hallway by continuing the pattern. The tiler who installed the tiles previously used a decoupling membrane. Will I be able to...

Hi all, I have bought the same valves and have the same question. I have read that these ribbed threads don’t need PTFE, but a particular threaded female wall plate with a rubber seal at the end.

I have bought a nice pair of Grohe angled isolation valves for my basin (floating with no cabinet underneath, so the valves will be visible). However these have a ribbed thread that needs to seal against a rubber washer. I have bought some Flomasta wall plate elbows 15mm x 1/2” to go behind the...

I checked again today and it looked dry; I even checked with a moisture reader and it was about 0.8-0.9%. So I went ahead and self levelled

Update with some pictures taken after letting it dry overnight. It looks less damp now. I put some cling film down with a glass on top. No signs of condensation, although maybe I should have taped it down