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I'm looking for a clear flexible sealant to go between my wood worktops and glass splashbacks. I've been warned off silicone by Oilman, but this stuff looks exactly right. Has anyone tried it? http://www.partridges.uk.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=&products_id=3264

Symptoms I can see that's a much neater way of doing it, but I'm concerned about having the glass directly onto the wood. Wooden worktops are mounted in slotted brackets with a gap to the wall, so that the wood can expand and contract. If the glass is stuck directly to the wood and the wall...

noseall Exactly, my window sill is 150mm above the sink. It gets wet sometimes.

Oilman Ah OK. I've never used silicone on wood, it's a good thing I asked. I'll look out for Sikaflex instead. Is it reasonably easy to find, or is it a specialist item? I did a bit of a Google, most results are boat related. There's also quite a range of grades. What grade do you use, and...

Meths it is then. Oilman, what's the problem with silicone? I used acrylic round a bath once and I'm never doing that again! I'll definitely stick to silicone in the bathroom.

What do people recommend? The worktops are oiled oak, and I'm fitting a glass splashback. I was going to leave about 4mm gap between the top surface of the wood and the bottom of the glass, and fill it with low-modulus silicone, so that the wood can move. Will the silicone stick to the oiled...

I've obviously still got a lot to learn about this "living in a house thing" :shock: I'm forever getting water on my kitchen worktops. I think I'll start another thread on worktop sealing....

Surely I've got to seal round the edges, to stop water going down the gap between the board and the wall / window frame? My worktops are oak, and I'm fitting glass splashbacks, I can't just leave a gap between the glass and the wood can I? It's in the kitchen so surfaces are going to get wet.

Ah yes, the old warp factor.... My local timber yard has some nice PAR oak board that would be just the right size, but a single board is much more susceptible to warping, isn't it? Am I right in thinking that a board made up from small blocks is much more stable? That's what they use for...

Thanks for all the replies. I think I'm going to go with Oilman and use wood - even if it does go manky after a few years it won't be a major job to replace it. Next question is how to fix it. The sill is rough cement render and the window frame is painted wood. Can I just Gripfil it onto the...

Not sure if this is the right forum, but it seems the closest one to me. Apologies if it's wrong. My kitchen is nearly done, but I can't decide what to use for the windowsill. It's white cabinets, Oak worktops and red glass splashbacks. The sill is about 1600x250 and needs to be between 10mm...

Wickes stuff is very solid for the price, but the range is a bit limited. I got most of my kitchen from Wickes, and one cabinet from B&Q, cos Wickes didn't do the one I wanted. The Wickes cabinets were of far superior quality to the B&Q one. Also, two people at work recently bought B&Q...

Absolutely right Softus :D I wanted to post a whinge about it, and couldn't find that forum, maybe they could set one up? We all need to rant every now and again :evil: Fair point though, I don't suppose anyone would want to read about it. Seriously though, I measured the diamond core...

I got a Green Bosch cordless for about £50 that's lasted me for years of pretty heavy DIY, I'd recommend it for any screwdriving or drilling into wood etc. Look out for one with the autolock keyless chuck, it means you can change the bit one handed and comes in really handy when swapping between...

Or was I just naive? I was fitting a 5" extractor duct, and figured I should hire a diamond core to cut throught the brick, as it would be the easiest method and leave a nice neat hole. Went to my local Brandons hire and got a 127mm bit, cost virtually nothing to hire, but £12+VAT per half...

I saw this a lot when drives over 120GB first came out, I think it was due to older BIOS versions that wouldn't recognise drives over 127GB. How old was the machine you formatted it in? Anything less than 3 years old should format it fine.

Diluted PVA is the standard way to seal up the porous and chalky stuff. You can get 5l from a builders merchants for less than 1l in B&Q. Do one coat of 1 part PVA to 5 parts water, then one coat of 1 part PVA to 3 parts water. Leave to dry between coats, it only takes an hour or so.

Don't just paint over it! Speaking from experience, if most if it came off with the wallpaper, then the rest will come off when you try and paint it, or just flake off later when you think it's all done. :cry: You could try sealing it well, but I'd get it all off or put lining paper over it.

I got a syringe with needle from SDM, filled it with glue and injected it into the bumps, then rolled over them with a seam roller. Worked fine. Since my bumps were due to inadequate surface prep, I used neat PVA in the syringe to make sure it stuck. If yours are just due to not enough soaking...

I've done some reading up on battery technologies in the past, and the general opinion seems to be - LiOn and Li-polymer - charge whenever you want, long term battery life is improved if you don't run it down fully before each charge. NiMh - charge whenever you want. Running it down to...