What should I use for my Kitchen windowsill?

[Hooo]

Not sure if this is the right forum, but it seems the closest one to me. Apologies if it's wrong.
My kitchen is nearly done, but I can't decide what to use for the windowsill. It's white cabinets, Oak worktops and red glass splashbacks. The sill is about 1600x250 and needs to be between 10mm and 25mm thick. Originally I was going to try and find a thin Oak worktop to match the rest, but stuff like the kettle and plants sit on the sill all the time and I think they'll ruin the wood. Corian's too expensive and not DIYable. I can't find laminate that thin. I might do 10mm toughened glass, but I think there'd be a bit too much glass then.
Any suggestions?

 

[noseall]

buy some bull nosed, pre-primed, mdf windowboard.

then paint it.

real wood has a propensity to bow away from the surface, unless it is excessively thick.

the glass idea is ok, but fixing it down may present problems.

 

[big-all]

if you have pvc windows they do window boards to match

another option is to tile

 

[tall paul]

if you have pvc windows they do window boards to match

another option is to tile

you can get a plastic cill with a bullnosed front from your local merchents or like big al says just run the ties through the reveal will be in keeping with your tiles under the wall units

paul

 

[oilman]

You can use wood if you want to. I did. Plants sit on it, and have done for around 5 years. I used Parana pine, could have used many other woods. Gave it about 20 coats of tung oil. No problems here.

 

[Hooo]

Thanks for all the replies.
I think I'm going to go with Oilman and use wood - even if it does go manky after a few years it won't be a major job to replace it.
Next question is how to fix it. The sill is rough cement render and the window frame is painted wood. Can I just Gripfil it onto the cement, or does it need something flexible so the wood can move?

 

[tall paul]

drill and plugg it to the cill mate.pack it on the underside to straighten/level the timber

 

[oilman]

Nothing wrong with a proper fixing, though mine just sits. One thing to look for though is to get quarter sawn timber to reduce cupping, and let it sit inside your house in a warm, dry room for a couple of months before fitting.

 

[noseall]

One thing to look for though is to get quarter sawn timber to reduce cupping, and let it sit inside your house in a warm, dry room for a couple of months before fitting.

aaaah thats the secret.

i would not even consider looking at the grain.

 

[oilman]

There's not much point if you use MDF.

 

[noseall]

i have used pirana, but only that which can be bought off the shelf at a builders yard. i suppose you can be more selective at a wood mill.

it is nice looking timber but found that cupping is a problem, particularly when plastering up to the underside, as we generally fit the windowboards prior to skimming. wood don't like water.

with adequate treatment and acclimatization, the problem would be lessened, but time IS the enemy.

 

[oilman]

i have used pirana, but only that which can be bought off the shelf at a builders yard. i suppose you can be more selective at a wood mill.

Fortunately I just play with wood and don't try to earn a living from it. I've just bought a chainsaw mill, so now I can have wood cut the way I choose, just need to get the trees?

 

[Hooo]

Ah yes, the old warp factor....
My local timber yard has some nice PAR oak board that would be just the right size, but a single board is much more susceptible to warping, isn't it? Am I right in thinking that a board made up from small blocks is much more stable? That's what they use for worktops, but can you get this in under 25mm thick?
I don't want to drill and screw it for fixing, because then I'll have to find some way to hide the fixings.
One more question, I'm going to oil it as per Oilman's recommendation, but I also want to silicone round the edge. Do I have to silicone before I oil it, to make sure it will stick? Or can I oil the whole board, then wipe the appropriate bit with white spirit before I apply the silicone.

 

[oilman]

Quarter sawn board doesn't move much, anything else might. Quarter sawn oak is what you see all those medullary rays in.

Why use silicone sealer at all? its dreadful stuff, and do you really need to seal it anyway? Why do you want to water the window board?

 

[Hooo]

Surely I've got to seal round the edges, to stop water going down the gap between the board and the wall / window frame?
My worktops are oak, and I'm fitting glass splashbacks, I can't just leave a gap between the glass and the wood can I?
It's in the kitchen so surfaces are going to get wet.