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You could meter the heater and check for continuity, that would eleminate 1 item. As to the others, sorry, it's a case of replacing and testing.

It's a heat problem. Heater, NTC or main PCB.

Pretty simple job. Turn the power to both oven and hob off. Remove the oven, you'll then have access to the fittings holding the hob in place (I'm assuming it's been fitted correctly). Release it, turn it over, disconnect the wiring. You may have to enlarge the hole for your new hob. Wire...

Simple enough job. Only problem is actually diagnosing what is causing the stat to trip. Is it, faulty stat? faulty circulation fan? faulty cooling fan? bad connection on wiring? or a faulty element? If either fan runs too slowly, or not at all, this will trip the stat. If the element...

The safety stat is tripping out. Either overheating or safety stat is faulty.

Unless you vent through the wall you're going to have condensation problems. The condensing box takes a lot of the moisture out but not all, same with condensing dryers. If you really can't do any of the suggestions then you either put up with the condensation or you don't have a dryer.

If you go to hoover.co.uk you'll be able to search for a manual. You'll need model and serial number.

I can see where the double red would go, the blues are easy. I'm assuming there's no continuity between 1 and 2 when the switch is on or off. You'll have to take the back off to confirm this. Single red to 1 Double red to 6 Single blue to F Double blue to G Yellow to 3 Make a link...

Yellow wire = 3 Single red = 6 (This red connects to fan element) Double red = 1 (shows 1 and 2 on diagram. check 1 and 2 are internally connected on switch first. These reds come from Timer). We have a difference on the blue wires. My diagram shows, blue from fan element and from neon...

What details of the original switch / stat? G & H appear to be linked on the new stat. You can check this with a multimeter. The diagrams show neutrals going through the thermostat.

I think there's a bit of confusion here. Breezer, did you read the same as me? Initally, I read new coil on old valve. Basically it's a new cold water valve with a used hot water valve coil on it. It should work OK.

Sorry, can't remember. Try lying on the floor and opening the door, may reveal two screw holes.

Search for Whirlpool and 4 flashes.

Yep. that's the one. Can't remember how it's fitted though. You will have to take off the plinth and have a good look at it.

Try cleaning out the transfer pipe from metering tank to sump. If you're lucky, take out the fine filter inside, look into the sump for a black rubber flap, lift this and push a long cable tie into the pipe. Rod it and you'll bring some gunk out.

OK, flooded base it is. You'll have to take the inspection plate off the front, under the door/tub. Drain the water out from the base (under the cavity/tub). Run it and check to see if it's leaking into the base. If it is, you'll have to identify where it's leaking from and repair.

How do you know it's tripped the anti-flood? The base is underneath the cavity, not under the filters. Reset won't do anything if the base is flooded.

Metering tank to sump transfer hose needs cleaning out too.

Lot of installations I've been to to repair the ovens, there's no oven housing, just two metal rails screwed to two panels. Basically, base unit plus end panel attached either side of where the oven is being fitted, two metal brackets running front to back, oven sits on these and slides in.

Make sure they haven't snapped. Make sure they're not sticking in the guides. Make sure they're evenly worn. Check the wiring at the motor. The fault you describe is a classic motor fault.