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I'm not a plumber, but do work along side them often. Man and boy £400 a day, 3 day fit with everything in situ minor works to location. Add £400 for controls Add £300 for power flushing Add £500 if gas main pipe isn't large enough Add £200 for a magna type filter Add down time when they...

I have a Xmas jumper, Xmas socks, underpants and (oh) the shame- a flashing Santa hat. We also have Xmas lights on the roof and house front, and a big 7ft tree with chocolate decorations and 60 presents under it. Bah Humbug.

Given the size of the room and having just noticed the mass of tape, go free hand. Buy a 15mm or 22mm sash brush and cutting in is as easy as it gets. I tend to cut in with a 2" brush, well loaded and never taken straight to the edge, do few passes 5mm from the edge and then do the final cuts.

If the corners are bumpy run a line of caulk down them, wash 50% out and when dry you will have a much cleaner line.

That look like brick patterned wall paper...

If all the houses are painted in a light colour, I'd stick with similar. If you make you house the odd one in the street, it will devalue the property. Ask a local estate agent. If it was mine I'd go white or buttermilk on the dashing. Black on the gable woods and replace the guttering back to...

Maybe he thinks the surface is decent, and it a de nib and use this sort of thing. http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/840550O/scotch-britetm-scuffing-systems-for-paint-preparation-brochure.pdf I used some on a barge board recently and they were really good.

I have a vision that the beams will be near black after 400 odd years, why not use a simple black flex cable?

Stanley blades and metal ruler or line. Make sure you use a decent blade brand and throw away the blade every four cuts (two with each end of the blade). Some papers demand ultra sharp cutting and won't cope with the same blade being used constantly. Otherwise go and spend a decent amount on...

Epoxy paint like they use on warehouse floors would do the job. Available in pretty well much any colour, my concern would be lack of traction for foot or car when wet, ice or snowy.

Superdec from Sandolin is a cracking single paint system

There is a product, it's called preparation. Sand paper and a block.

Depends on the state of the job, and the required standard of finish. Sanding is necessary only for keying the old paint surface, so 120 grade is fine. The same grade will work fine on de nibbing dust and particles. If you have bubbling or semi peeling finish, then a harsher grade such as 80...

If it's a standard lobby why not do away with any fluffing around and get all the walls skimmed? Since some need doing, the it really won't add too much to the cost (I'm still seeing a lobby, smaller area). Skim walls tend to be stabilised pre skim, normally with a pva water mix- that varies...

The paint was from previous works. The edges were sealed with 007 sealant (James Bond eat your heart out). Unfortunately the bricks are rough faced so it's near impossible to remove the paint. If I'd been more thoughtful I could have jellied the paint up with some paint stripper pre refurb.

Key surface with 120 grade, take shine off gloss and denim (slight bumps and trapped dust particles. Then water based satin wood x 2 coats

& Stable and keyed.

Heres some work I've done recently. Patience, multi cutter and the smell of rotting eggs (wiffy 2 part epoxy). Dulux trade oil TC and UC (2 coats each). Zinn cover oil primer (dry in an hour).

Have you thought of going external route? From loft pop out via soffit, in to 25mm PVC conduit (four cables max) and feed back in to house at certain points for different areas. You could use a single feed to each floor on to a sub hub, and then have a (less hassle) job of running from the sub...