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Any examples of these, please muggles?

I have double checked with the shed supplier and they say the base is the same size as the shed. But I don't know if they mean precisely or just roughly. I have asked them the question. Thanks for the tip.

Thank you guys. Appreciate the advice. Bobby - you make a good point, but for aesthetic reasons, I wanted a nice patio surrounding the shed. Is there any point in adding a DPC sheet underneath the timber rails/floor, even though they are tanalised? I've seen this recommended in posts when...

Just so I am aware of all of my options - I'm yet to pay the contractor for his work - is there any option to expand the base by the additional 50mm? I'm assuming you cant just pour 50mm extra concrete because it wont be bonded to the existing pour. What would be the minimum you could pour - or...

Thanks domdee - I was hoping that would be the case. Lower - The sandstone slabs will be laid on a compacted subbase and then a bed of mortar. The reason the entire shed area was not laid with slabs is because the cost of the sandstone, pointing etc would far exceed the cost of pouring...

Shed will have a timber floor - 1 inch thick tanalised.

Fair point. But knocking money off aside, I need a solution to move forwards. If it was a case of adding some more concrete, that'd be easy. But I don't think that is an option. I'm hoping the slabs either side will more than suffice - seems logical to me. After all, a lot of people suggest...

I've just paid quite a hefty sum for what I believe is a fairly professional contractor to lay a 20 x 12 shed base. This is for a 20 x 12 wood shed with apex roof. I'd done plenty of homework on this one and their work all looked professional and prices were on the higher side of average. It...

Does anyone know what causes the baffle to break down? Excess temperature? Hard water? I've not experienced the debris myself, but I do have a Megaflo 250L and after a few years of use, the air bubble constantly required recharging every 3-6 months. I got fed up, so I had an engineer fit an...

Thank you ScottishGasMan - just what I needed. The boiler is a Vaillant 438. The main problem being (as you said) that HW does not have priority, so with radiators heating the boiler flow temperature is usually insufficient to re-heat the cylinder to max. Given, at the moment, we run out of HW...

Thanks - good advice, and something I have considered. Alternatively, I may just configure my heating to go off around the time we wake up, as the house does not lose heat that quickly.

How about second cylinder vs one larger cylinder? Pros and cons?

That's useful to know. I also noticed the Joule cylinder doesnt seem to be available without the fitting kit anyway.

Indirect cylinder. Recovery time is about 30 mins. Showers are around 20L/min. Maximum two being used at any one time. I know Megaflos lose some capacity because of the internal baffle. so I'd expect to get just over 12 mins of usage if running continuously. I do have the cylinder being heated...

As the kids are growing, I'm finding our 250L Megaflo is occasionally running out of HW. What are opinions on having a second UV cylinder vs having a bigger 400/500L cylinder fitted? Any pros and cons? My Megaflo is "only" 7 years old. Is there any resale value to these things, or do I just...

You can't using standard controls. Hence the compromise. With manufacturer specific controls (eg. Vaillant Ebus) or controls which use OpenTherm, this is possible.

Assuming megaflo is at 65 degrees and incoming cold is 5 degrees at the moment, I'd put the cold to hot ratio at 3:2, assuming a target shower temperature of 40 degrees. For 125L hot, you get ~ 80L cold. Most decent thermostatic showers will use about 12L/min (but can go much, much higher). So...

Going from one pipe to two pipe means the radiators will be more efficient. Therefore, if anything, they will end up being oversized and able to heat the house at lower flow temperatures.

That would be a reasonable assumption.

The pipe size needs to be chosen based on the system requirements. For a normal domestic dwelling, you'd usually have 22mm flow and return pipes with 15mm tees to radiators. That is just an educated guess, though. If the pipe runs are excessively long and / or the radiators are especially large...