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You're not wrong. Good for stitch repointing horiz mortar cracks too. Theres's a ring beam at ground floor window cill level, no cavity below. The (ground floor) bathroom wall tees onto it so it's the same temp as the outside wall in winter, but it had a rad so the top 3/4 changed...

Single leaf breeze (not supporting). I dug a 100sq test hole in the ctr and found conc. below the screed so I figure using conc. blocks will be ok. Do internal walls require a dpc? I'm assuming it would be good practice to dig out a channel in the screed and block up off the concrete below...

Thanks, Slab run off isn't an issue, and floor level is higher internally.

I treated the conc. base with sikka rapid dpm, then put membrane or damp course under the stud soles. I'll cover the whole base with a taped seam membrane anyway. I was thinking of masonry screwing a couple of treated 38x63 CLS down flat directly on the membrane at the base of the stud wall to...

Would a £70 Erbauer reciprocating saw be ok for cutting out a doorway in a single leaf internal breeze wall, using masonry blades? The masonry blades aren't free but I won't have cutting discs in the house, they're banned. Not a supporting wall. Thanks Dain

Where a 2 coat skim is being applied: would spread apply all of the 1st coat, then go back and start again with the 2nd coat? Thanks, Dain

Ok, one last thing, when spread says fix boards to batten, does he mean with screws or plasterboard adhesive? Adhesive would give useful tolerance.

Or rip something from some nice dry ply that I have kicking about. New batten will shrink as it dries out. DPC behind is good. Either way takes us back to my original thread header - how to fix batten to wall? Do I avoid bricks and drill a mortar course for conc. screws?

Yes. I added an image. Changed thread title.. The surface of the car port base that's being domesticated is lower than the floor level of the house. For various reasons the finished floor level will be approx. top of lowest brick course. I could have been clearer earlier on,

I never bond skirting to walls. I use screws, so that whoever has cause to remove it doesn't curse my mother for bearing me. Base of wall has 3 brick courses below damp course. The btm course can be disregarded because the flooring will be there, but the 2 courses above that? Is it normal to...

Would it be better to put the conc screws in the mortar courses instead of the red bricks?

To fix a bit of ply along a wall base, prior to dry lining so that there's something decent behind the plasterboard to screw skirting to later. Do red bricks just crack if you drill the right size hole and put conc. screws in? Or would it be better to put them in to a mortar course?

Steel, perforated underside, possibly catnic? It supported sliding balcony dbl doors, with dbl leaf exterior wall at each end. All of which have gone, now it just supports the ends of the original joists one side, and new joists on the other.

The oak window board isn't deep enough to accommodate dry lining. Too late now..

Can anyone help me with this? The online calculators are pretty basic and don't really do the job. Am in a reasonably prosperous town in Wales. Have had prices of 1.5k and 2k? Any help would be appreciated. 5x4x2.3m room. How much is reasonable to pay for: A) 2 coat skim on pre boarded TE...

Should pilots be larger than the root of the screw? Thank you Dain

I need to fit a door lining where a wall is to be dry lined (presuming that spread would want the door lining fitted before dry lining the wall). 10mm deep cable capping to accommodate, plus 12.5mm board and 3mm skim? I was thinking of setting the door lining maybe 30mm proud, giving approx...

Yes, building regs are fine with it. Presumably it gets skimmed before the floor bats/ply etc go down?

the image is of the car port being converted, taken from the hallway just inside the old front door.

View from hallway thru old front door..