Search results

But you are still required to limit the pressure drop to 1 millibar.

You're right, he's zimmers too. I hadn't realised that. Makes you wonder how many other names on here are rudeboy in disguise. Maybe I'm the only real person! :shock:

Frank uk, or should I say Bobbo 85, or should that be bobbo85, or perhaps ajs, or maybe hi-spec? You think you're being clever changing your name every few days, but you're just so obvious rudeboy.

With regard to the shower, are you sure that the shower valve and pump have been installed in accordance with the instructions for both? For example most shower pumps require that the hot supply is taken from the cylinder via a special "flange" or boss which is designed to avoid entraining air...

True, but if the pressure is lower then the velocity would be lower too, wouldn't it? The velocity of the water will be determined by the pressure differential between the ends of the loop in question which will be potentially much higher with mains flushing. I've carried out mains flushing...

Sorry, I shouldn't have suggested that. And you're right that trapped air might add to flow resistance and so provoke cavitation. However cavitation is more likely to occur with shower pumps than domestic heating pumps since shower pumps are generally rated at 1 bar and above.

Does trapped air contribute to cavitation? What evidence was there of cavitation in the central heating pump? It's all very well cutting and pasting from internet sites (though you really should identify your sources) but if you don't really understand the subject you'll end up looking a...

Well, well, what a surprise!

Fluid hammers? Cavitation? What do you mean by these expressions?

What on earth does bleeding radiators have to do with the problem described? The rad is hot at the top, so hot water is clearly getting to the top of the rad, so no air there.

Expansion vessel problem. See FAQs.

steadyonson, don't get involved in his problems! If he hasn't thought these things through before carrying out the work, that's his problem, NOT YOURS! Just tell him that you would prefer not to have any pipes or vents of any sort projecting over your property, and leave it at that.

You can usually undo the flexi hose without a tool. The ends of the hose have projections to get a grip on with your fingers. If you don't disconnect the hose you won't know if you've turned off the water.

And have you disconnected it?

If you switch supplier via certain switching agencies you can get a cut of the commission (£30) for yourself into the bargain. Best place to start is http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/utilities/you-switch-gas-electricity.

FFS, close the isolating valves on the filling loop! Check the FAQs for details on this. Make sure that no water is entering through the filling loop by disconnecting it.

Last Triumph, starting multiple threads on your problem isn't going to change what the problem is. You've been told it's a blockage but you want someone to tell you something different, so you start a second thread so people won't see that you've already been told what the problem is. That is an...

He's in denial! He's hoping that if he ignores the real problem another easier-to-resolve problem will come along instead. Speaking of which, what if the cold feed is blocked! Then on the hot water setting the pump might suck air down the vent pipe which would result in a noisy pump. Maybe...

Most people manage with just the one name. It's just you, bobbo85 / hi-spec / ajs / rudeboy that has three or four.

He clones himself. As well as bobbo85 he's also hi-spec and ajs , not to mention rudeboy when he sends abusive emails. Every time I expose him he comes back with a new name. In short I wouldn't believe a word he says.