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Do you mean fill the gap as much as possible with a piece of plastic strip, to reduce the depth (it's about 8-10mm deep, so if I can reduce that to say 3mm it will save a load of sealant), and then apply sealant on top to fill the 20mm gap between the tiles and the bath? B&Q have a 2m PVC flat...

If the bath wasn't properly fixed in place, surely the plastic strip and sealant on top of it that was between the bath and the tiles wouldn't have been sufficient to stop the bath moving?

He's fitted some sort of thick sealant (more rubbery than normal sealant) between the edge of the bath and the wall, so hopefully that will keep it in place but to be safe I'll buy some tubes of plaster filler and fill in the gap before fitting the strip on top.

I've cut the horizontal part of the strip away from the vertical (which I can't remove as it sits under the tiles), so it looks like the attached photo now. If I'm just going to stick a vertical strip on top of the tiles and then seal top and bottom, is there really any need to fill the gap first?

The old strip partially sits behind the tiles though, so wouldn't I have to remove the tiles to fit a new strip? I really don't want to do that.

I'm replacing the mouldy old sealant and there was an L-shaped plastic strip fitted previously, with the vertical part behind the tiles, so I had to use my multi-tool to separate that part from the horizontal part to remove the latter, as there was a load of mouldy old sealant under that and no...

I'm replacing the sealant in my Dad's bathroom, partly because he didn't do a very neat job (he refitted the entire bathroom himself and did a nice job with most of it, it's just the sealant he's not great at) and partly because there's a fair bit of mould on it now. I'm pretty sure he used an...

Thanks. Yeah, that would make sense as that's more likely to splash on the lower tiles.

I'm helping my Dad out by replacing the mouldy sealant in his bathroom and I also want to fix the discoloured grouting between the tiles. It's not white grouting, it's a grey/brown shade which matches the tiles, as shown in the first photo. The second photo shows one of the areas where it's...

Thanks guys, I'll pass your suggestions on.

My Dad's fitted most of the TRVs now but he can't get the old one off the living room radiator. He says he's tried all manner of tools (spanners and wrenches I think, I don't remember exactly what he said) and it won't budge. Is this something that a plumber would have a special tool for that...

Thanks. I'll check when the next service is due. Hopefully it's soon! Regarding the TRVs, I read a tip that said it's a good idea when installing them to make sure the valve-body pins are free by using a pair of pliers to shift them up and down a few times with a little WD40, so the motors...

If my Dad ignored all of my advice and warnings and wired the hub up to the boiler himself, assuming that he wired it up correctly using the appropriate cabling, what safety and legal implications might there be? Would it cause any major problems at the next service, or would it just make it a...

OK, I'll have to think about whether it would be better to use the roomstat as an easily accessible way to adjust the living room/dining room temperature, or to use it to control the towel rails. I'll see if the TRVs go on sale for Black Friday and maybe pick up another one then. Do the TRVs...

For the towel rails, isn't there a cheaper way to do this rather than buying a TRV which you're not going to use as a TRV? Isn't there a standalone temperature sensor that could be used for this? My parents do use the two spare bedrooms as offices, so for them it makes sense to have TRVs on all...

It's a valve that bypasses one of the radiators, so the water can flow back to the boiler even when all of the TRVs are off. I don't need one though, as I'm not going to fit TRVs to every radiator. Why would the two TRVs on the rads in the living room/dining room fight each other unless I...

Oh ta. So will a gas engineer be able to do the wiring, including providing the mains supply to the hub, or will I need an electrician to do that?

I found this thread on the Tado forum which shows a photo of where the hub would need to be wired to. I don't think that section is accessible without removing the cover, but I'll check the manual...

You seem to have missed where I said "It turns out the current thermostat in the hall is a RF unit, with no wiring to the boiler or mains". There is no existing wiring, either for the control signal to the boiler or for a mains supply for the hub, for me to use.

Are you saying that the Drayton Wiser hub can control the boiler via RF, in the same way as the Worcester thermostat does? So the hub just needs mains electricity?