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Haha you may have a valid point there but nothing's indestructible, if another leak is suspected it won't take long to break through any kind of filler etc. Obviously the original plumber would need to be bricked!

Agreed, @endecotp nailed it.

Think I'd be inclined to go with a grey to match the 'mortar colour' on the tiles, or perhaps slightly darker. FYI in case you don't know you can get lots of different shades of grey (or whatever colour) than is available from the likes of Toolstation/B&Q or your fitter is likely to have...

How would we know? Is it an internal wall? Is it a metal stud partition? What is on the other side? Stud finders are notoriously inaccurate,

What a peculiar response from the OP, I would agree that to start with, pressure wash the paving, brick wall at the end and clean the fence/wall or repaint, it would already transform it, at least then you have a proper clean slate and go from there.

Go for it, do the dimensions that are quoted/you can measure line up at least?

Some photos might help.

Scunthorpe United player Jonathan Gjoshe was lucky he only lost his fringe in the attack.

All sorts available if you google it eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/326161785097

No, the reason is the person building the wall didn't care or was lacking the necessary skills or both.

Why don't you buy longer complete lengths and trim them down to suit your ceiling height, it will surely look more seamless than multiple lengths butted up against each other, which are likely to not align very well unless you have dead straight walls/corners.

You're point was like a broken pencil.

A country can have more than one national dish guys, F&C, a roast, bangers & mash, shepherds pie, a full English, so many, I could go on .....

@Old tool guy Nah, you offered some irrelevant conjecture on the pitch and said you'd not work for this guy, wise-ass more like.

Perhaps you could actually give some then. :rolleyes:

He's clutching at straws with that statement, that's all.

Can a 'corner bracket' (whatever that is) be justified by your SE? Surely to get a splice plate to work you would need to be able to push it into the (presumably non existent gap) between the top of the joists and the underside of the deck?

As mentioned can just some of them be sistered rather than every one and why do the sister joists need to be as deep as the main joists? So you can still have a soffit, albeit with a deeper fascia.

Not sure I follow, but the underside of the notch looks to be higher than the bottom of the fascia board?

Hmm, we'll take your word for it. :unsure: