I'm not vague, I'm just undecided, I can do it myself and pay the extra fee or I can pay an electrician.
I've not even calculated the cost for diy or got a professional quote for comparison yet.(well actually a ball park figure from the commercial electrician I employ at work, curiousity more...
I was just wondering, it was something I read about elsewhere, pros and cons of radials/ring and the point about a damaged ring was made- going undetected because of the return redundancy but still earthed due to that Whereas a radial wouldn't be. There's quite a lot of debate on the subject...
That's cool, your not obliged to.
But in answer to your question, No not for free, it costs £255, its on top of the building control fee. Its specifically for people who are not registered as competent persons.
I.e. As I can't issue any certification to say what I've done is either safe or to...
No mostly they reside about 400 each, but it's feasible for them to pull a 1000 each continuous, the trend though is for less wattage in general, however multi gpu optimisation is finally looking up with the onrush of 4K gaming so in the not so distant future tri and quad 1080 ti/vegas are a...
In reality, likely max load would be,
Two pc's so max 2000w,
Monitors, amps, router, circa 200w
Home server max 300w
PS4 and monitor max200w
Lamps 100w
Phone, tablet etc chargers, negligible
......
Hairdryer 2000w
Vacuum 800w
The first/last is near the supply, but that might not be reason enough it seems, likely loading doesn't especially warrant it even if I am a fan of a good ole three bar fire but I do love to feel all intercontinental.
Do you mean as opposed to a radial circuit?
I couldn't give a reason, well not one that would satisfy a sparky...
From what I've gathered, a ring is arguably yet slightly better than a radial because of the two returns, a bit of redundancy is created should a part of the circuit be damaged.. er...
Yes, definitely rectangular.
Out of curiosity what would you guys charge for this?
Loft is roughly 7x4m with 8 double sockets straight from cu
A three way switched light for stairs
A two way switched for 4 down lights
No access problems, no insulation in yet just framing and floor.
Only...
It's a house, the reason for a separate ring is, it's a nice straight run down a void to the cu and that has enough spare capacity. It's only a couple of meters further than the point where you'd break into the ring so not too much extra cable wise.
As for literal ring, well I suppose that's...
I've looked on the search and around the web but can't get much of a conclusive answer.
When installing a ring final in a loft is there an ideal/best route for the cable run?
should it be all under the floor and rise to each socket?
Run round the rear side of the dwarf walls in a literal ring...
My first thought was to extend the wall that runs between the sitting & bedroom all the way to where the sink is, this would leave a utility room big enough for a pantry, and all the white goods and associated kitchen storage stuff. As you have a separate dining room I'd remove the...
hi all,
I'm about to fill a cavity that's formed between a building and an extension.
I've chased out all the mortar and the starters are bent all over the place
The wall starters that are there have been screwed to the original building in only two places per strip and the leaves only go into...
Any opinions?
An alternative would be foil backed plaster board if taped would this act as a vcl or would I need a separate layer of another material...
I'm kinda stumped on this one,
I've got an opportunity to buy a lot of non foil faced insulation at a very good price.
As I understand it the foil helps with the radiation side of heat loss, acts as a vcl when taped and so is somewhat beneficial.
Would a multifoil (yes, yes I know..hiss boo...
hi all,
In preparation for a loft conversion I've found that the walls supporting the purlin mid span are no longer sound.
The purlin has moved downward slightly (almost as if the roof has spread and sagged) and cracked the pillar wall that supports it, pushed bricks out of place etc.
I'm...
You mean wallplates/ledger board with joist hangers, then add(sistering) a 4"joist to the 3" to make it up to the same height throughout.
You could.. but you'd probably find it likely to crack the plaster on the ceilings below when you add weight on the new floor.
Look at the trada span table...