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Post pics please? What materials - tile, stone etc - have been used? Is any electro-mechanical apparatus involved? This might be a Tile forum issue?

Some time ago I posted information about my experience of finding occasional Tarmac Floors in residential houses. The usual ignorant posters leapt about in near psychotic excitement that such a claim could be made. Mouths frothing, they piled in to deny that Tarmac could ever have been used...

Thats great - whatever sweat equity means - well you've got it in spades. A tremendous job of hard work. Whats the plan now? No air brick pockets from previous vents to be seen but do you now intend to have a suspended floor? Whatever your plans - come back on here, and just ask if you want...

The best screwfix loft ladder needs a very large hatch opening which severely limits the possible locations.

Is there enough depth for what you propose - why not make a drawing of a full scale section view using the next room FFL as a benchmark? Maybe there's ample hot water piping in that compartment already? I cant see the whole floor or the depth at the threshold but you might be better off...

Rubbish deleted Mod For example: you might need to double up more than the "remaining ones on either side" - you might need to do much more but thats beyond your question, and looking at plan views of trimming lay-outs will give you the relative info. I did qualify my post "but not before"...

OP, xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 1."the red line shows ... injected with a chemical dpc" - the red line shows nothing of the sort - where exactly does it say that on the plan? There's a multitude of ways to install a DPC or treat a damp surface. 2."single skin" - rubbish, utter...

Dont use any kind of plasterboard on wet walls - if you have p/b on wet walls then remove the p/board and replace with backerboard. Tanking is not necessary but it would pay you to post a couple of pics showing the condition of the masonry wall surfaces?

Making sure the ply is well screwed down then you wont need any backerboard. Adhesive will pick up any height differences - comb the floor and butter the back of your tile. I assume that like most nowadays you will be using large format tiles?

You dont post a pic but if you are referring to say boxing-in pipework with ply then no problem using Pva. Dont use Pva in areas where it will be exposed to constant wet - eg wet walls or floors.

Can you crawl under the floor?

Thank you for the D&T survey plan. The items below are for your reference: "walls to be treated" - how, with what? Does "treated" mean installing a DPC from the interior only because i dont see signs of an external DPC from 10 yrs ago? The only wall "treated" on both sides is the wall between...

Its should be OK to cut that joist but not before you've worked out how you are going to "frame" the hatch in. The whole opening will need trimming - google for triming pics. Trimming gives safe construction, esp if you are near to a stairwell. Your 95mm x 45mm will do, and you can plane and...

"tanking is a last resort, and usually the worst and incorrect solution. it creates cold surfaces and stops the natural escape of moisture" I wonder who said that?

Done properly, there's no risk in removing a few face bricks or a course of brickwork. In your case OP there's no need to replace or render anything - esp a there appears to be two courses with two lines of holes. Are all the holes from ledger bolts or is one course an injected DPC line?

OP, just a thought, dont do any kind of hammering or chiselling anywhere on the c/breast or back hearth or front hearth - thing is, you could bring the loose brickwork above come crashing down. Just saying. As always, measure twice cut once applies to c/breasts as well. So, before any work, get...

OP, I wont go on but i wish you luck. There are so many glaring difficulties in your bathroom, and some of the thread advice appears odd to me. Whats an important safety issue is the boiler - either have it removed (best option) - or get it certified by a GasSafe.

OP, your original complaint was roughly about humidity its causes and consequences. You mentioned previous work by a D&T company, and the possible humidity consequences of the sand & cement plinth. To first get the plinth issue out of the way: the plinth is not a cause of your humidity. Cut...

As i said above, you will need the installation dimensions before doing anything else. A 75mm raised back hearth would add to the lintel height but first the dimensions.

Then go to the height installation dimension and allowing for a lintel go 2 or 3 courses above the install height. Then open up to insert an Acrow Strong Boy centred over the opening. Assuming the flue lining stays in place then remove the lower bricks and slice the flue liner with an angle...