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You'll be better off with a cheap table saw

Yes, it looks like the ridge should be a bit longer, and the roofer did not want to add an extra bit of ridge tile.

Mix it semi dry, add a tiny bit of fairy liquid (couple of drops for a small mix) to hold it together like plasticine, use your finger.

Those images are indicative of penetrating damp, not condensation damp (although that might be resultant) and it's concentration is too high for rising damp. The stone cills would imply that the cause is penetration from around the frame, not the wall itself. Check the frame perimeter and...

Gas does not expire. If there is gas in the can, it will work.

Leave it. Post back in 20 years when it might need doing.

Put a spoonful of yogurt on it and then it will match the rest of the bricks in a few weeks, you wont even know the builder was even there. Unless your preference is for a nice new shiny brick and new clean mortar?

For the first course, use a strong 3:1 mix of screed sand/cement to level the course. Semi-dry and trim the bed nicely, flush with the blocks. You should not need to shutter. Let the first course go off for a day or so before continuing.

Nothing wrong with new build. I got a bargain with a great view - just waiting for the skip to go and the daffodils to come up next March

Your sketches need to be in proportion as the beam is as deep as the pier is wide and it will look different to those drawings. I'd abstain, but if I had to vote, #1

First confirm that it is dry rot and not any other type of fungus. If it is dry rot, bleach wont do jack. Dry rot fungus needs to be removed and the area sterilized with a chemical - typically a boron based one but some others do the job. Plaster needs to be removed if the hyphae have gotten...

What they don't teach you about the dangers of dry rot to pregnant women in a chemistry degree, is that the heavier pregnant woman is at risk from timber floors weakened by the fungus. That's the difference between knowledge and wisdom.

My condolences :sick:

The reason for securing the ladder further down - before you go up, is that it removes the risk of the ladder slipping while you ascend and before you've had chance to tie the top. It's OK if someone can foot it while you go up, it's not OK for your underwear if you're alone and the ladder...

Only if used commercially, not when used for private domestic use

LOL. NO! Much more substantial Like these www.scorpio-safety.co.uk/anchor-systems/safety-eyebolts-and-ladder-ties

Trade the dog in for a Jack Russell. Otherwise your faffing about with a bit of ply or suchlike placed on the floor across the opening

Upvc are crap, and ugly. And that stupid high threshold. :rolleyes: If you don't fancy timber, then fit a composite door.

Sealsdirect.co.uk ? Or search for generic rubber cord or epdm gasket of a suitable size. Plumbers Mait might work

Stand off bracket or piece of timber in the gutter to stop it bending. Push a couple of tiles back and tie the ladder to a tile batten. Or, fit a scaffold eyelet bolt into the wall 1-2m up from the ground (you can get removable ones), attach a ratchet strap to this and thread the end through a...