I like ladders to be firm, at both top and bottom. 1-2m is a compromise, meaning you can drill and attach the fixings without being at risk on the ladder drilling. At the top, I would still want the ladder lashed in place.
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Ladder accessory to allow safely getting on and off house roof.
- Thread starter pieceofmind
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I like ladders to be firm, at both top and bottom. 1-2m is a compromise, meaning you can drill and attach the fixings without being at risk on the ladder drilling. At the top, I would still want the ladder lashed in place.
1-2m will reduce the risk of the ladder sliding along the floor (away from the wall). But, yeah, I would want an anchor point towards the top to reduce the risk of the top sliding left to right.
As I hurtle towards my dotage, I have no problem climbing off ladders at height, it is getting back on which gives me wobbly leg syndrome.
These days, when painting exteriors of houses, I insist on scaffolding. £5k for the front of the property. £500 for the scaffolding and I can leave my tools/materials up there. I can't climb a ladder with my sander and dust extractor.
On average, the cost of scaffolding is about 10% of the final cost. I can do the job at least 30% faster. My labour costs are more than the cost of materials and scaffolding, and I don't have a "if I fall of a ladder, will you cover my medical costs until I die clause".
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That looks like a 'Vine Eye' to me - totally unsuitable.
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That is what the 'professionals' (OpenReach and Sky) use or a form of nowadays when climbing ladders up house walls. One or 2 of those is installed into the wall before the operative extends the ladder to full height then the ladder is lashed to the eye in the wall so it cannot slip away from where the work is to be completed. After the task is complete the eye should be removed and the expanding section is collapsed and then the sleeve is removed for the wall. It is intended that the hole is plugged after the sleave is removed.This might be better...
R-RBL RAWLBOLT SHIELD ANCHOR EYE BOLT M8 [BAG OF 2] | Rawlplug Ltd.
World's most popular all-purpose expanding shield anchor - eye bolt version...shop.rawlplug.co.uk
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But presumably there's no harm in leaving them installed for future maintenance use? Unless they cause water ingress and damage to the bricks?
OP,
No matter if the roof is pitched or flat - ladders should project above the gutter or the edge of the roof by 900mm or about three rungs.
Best to tie-in 300mm either side of the ladder and about 700mm below the gutter or soffit. Drill into solid bricks & leave the eyelets in place for future use.
Using a stand-off or a tower - you still use two eyelets about 700mm below the gutter or any soffit.
Stand-offs are excellent devices - dont rest the ladder on any gutter.
When first climbing to drill have someone footing the ladder.
When up on a roof always have one down & one up.
No matter if the roof is pitched or flat - ladders should project above the gutter or the edge of the roof by 900mm or about three rungs.
Best to tie-in 300mm either side of the ladder and about 700mm below the gutter or soffit. Drill into solid bricks & leave the eyelets in place for future use.
Using a stand-off or a tower - you still use two eyelets about 700mm below the gutter or any soffit.
Stand-offs are excellent devices - dont rest the ladder on any gutter.
When first climbing to drill have someone footing the ladder.
When up on a roof always have one down & one up.
I always place them at top of the upstairs window height, unless working on a gable wall, so higher.
That's for quick jobs of a couple of hours, anything longer is either a tower (£120/week hire) or scaffolding.
Yes, no problem.
LOL. NO!
Much more substantial
Like these www.scorpio-safety.co.uk/anchor-systems/safety-eyebolts-and-ladder-ties
Those would need regular testing and certification.
Only if used commercially, not when used for private domestic use
I was aware of that
Always best to have a ladder lashed at the top, as I found out several years ago...
I was up on the flat roofed garage, alone, doing something or other, not very high, but risky to jump down. It was breezy, I had used a short, lightweight ladder to get up there. I heard a clatter, turned in time to see the ladder be blown over to the ground. There I was, stuck up there. My partner was indoors, she was busy doing something, I had no phone, all I could do was shout to get the attention of neighbours, to ring the house phone, to get her to come out and put the ladder back up. That ladder, now has a permanent piece of rope on it, and is always lashed in place, when I need to venture on the roof.
The reason for securing the ladder further down - before you go up, is that it removes the risk of the ladder slipping while you ascend and before you've had chance to tie the top.I was aware of that
Always best to have a ladder lashed at the top, as I found out several years ago...
I was up on the flat roofed garage, alone, doing something or other, not very high, but risky to jump down. It was breezy, I had used a short, lightweight ladder to get up there. I heard a clatter, turned in time to see the ladder be blown over to the ground. There I was, stuck up there. My partner was indoors, she was busy doing something, I had no phone, all I could do was shout to get the attention of neighbours, to ring the house phone, to get her to come out and put the ladder back up. That ladder, now has a permanent piece of rope on it, and is always lashed in place, when I need to venture on the roof.
It's OK if someone can foot it while you go up, it's not OK for your underwear if you're alone and the ladder slides just 1" with you at the top trying to tie it.
That's what wives are for... And cooking...and cleaning...and ironing...and taxing us about after a party...
WIFE- Washing, ironing, ffing, etc- and no- I am not Andrew Tate...
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