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Consider how long you will be living there or on this earth. You won't recoup the costs of expensive slate in any future sale or if you are not there to get the benefit. Artificial slate can be expected to last at least 40 years, and may leave some budget for other work or better specification...

Is the canopy falling back towards the house? Or the flashing below the tile level? It's poor design and/or poor work. That is not just about cleaning, that concentrated run-off will degrade the render in that area leading to premature wear and failure.

Applications for planning permission have to be correct, and have to meet certain national and local criteria in terms of what is submitted and what information is presented and how. If the application does not meet the criteria, it won't be valid and won't be accepted. It's not just a case of...

TBH, in not clear what the issue is. Boundaries, PW Act and ownership etc are all different things. The PWA can only apply to party walls as defined under the Act, and there can be no dispute or debate or negotiation about what a building owner or adjoining owner wants. If the Act applies...

Don't be afraid to use masking tape

A bit of fairy liquid in with the water helps. Also a smooth, flat wet piece of timber just a bit wider than the joint can give it a flat pointed effect. Likewise, a soaked wide piece of dowel (or round off some timber) if you want half round but it should be dead smooth.

Whilst water may sit on such a fascia and enter the wall from the top or drip off the bottom, the wall is a cavity wall so water would not normally reach the inside. Check whether any damp on the inside is higher or lower than the level of that fascia.

It's defined in section 20 (b) of the Act Type B: A wall that stands wholly on one owner's land but is used by two or more owners to separate their buildings. Only the portion of the wall that serves this separating function is considered a party wall under the Act

If the roof was not a problem and leaking due to the lap for the past 35 years, there's no reason why it should be a problem if the tiles are refitted. You may need to replace the felt/membrane if replacing the battens. There is a recent thread about shallow angles at the eaves.

Condensation is not a defect. The membrane should be breathable and if so will be allowing condensation moisture to pass outward The membrane should sag, and you may like to fit some polystyrene wedges in the laps to aid ventilation. The ridge would normally have some membrane beneath the...

A party wall must have room on either side. The PWA may apply to building a wall near a boundary, but that won't make the wall a party wall

Hmmm, maybe. I think it's best to bear in mind the principles of using some insulation, not necessarily the same thickness as the other walls, and minimise cold surfaces and bridging, and do what's easiest at least cost.

It's not an issue at all. Your advisor needs to check what replacement works are planned for the near future and your liabilities for costs

What's above those drips? Where are they coming from? You need to determine if this is condensation or not. For info, the breather membranes the industry sold us are not as breathable as they claimed, and condensation issues are rife even when everything about a roof is done "right". Over the...

There should be no wet spots from water penetration below a new roof. The breather membrane should be fitted with a sag between the rafters to aid air flow and any condensation run-off. Not all breather membranes breathe to the same extent. Most of the condensation in a roof void is caused by...

It's either/ivor for multiple screws or a few bolts. The benefit of screws is that the fixing is spread over a wider area of timber and not limited to just a few locations and axis in the timber. The screws also pull all the ply to the purlin, not just at the locations of the bolts. PU tends to...

Nothing you do will stop that wall moving so any rigid repair will invariably re-crack to some extent - normally hairline if the cracking is as wide as it will ever be and the wall settled bar for any slight seasonal thermal movement. So it may be best to use a flexible filling material like...

Don't skim and decorate straight on the board, saving 3mm. Or use foam adhesive and rely on that and air, and you won't have any practical or demonstratable difference Or shave the insulation board or fit a thinner board, likewise you won't notice any difference. Introducing a cold cement...

I would not mess about with it too much - the existing finish is not spectacular and there is a big chance that the wall will continue to move slightly in any case. Look for trowel mastic, it comes in a tub and is err applied with a trowel. It remains flexible to deal with minor movement, and...

What's the cost, convenience and aesthetics of doing all that instead of just putting the heating on low for a few hours to take the cill off and stop the draughts?