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I dont think many thieves etc tend to pick the lock, but rather use brute force and break the thing off, or smash a window etc. I wouldn't get too worried about pick resistance, as long as it can't be bypassed or something. Personally I've gone with average locks, but quality heavy duty handles.

Yes you could get a simple plug in energy monitor type device that you connect it through at the supply end in the house, and after watching it for a while, you'll get a feel for what the normal current draw is, then if something snaps or changes in there you'll see a different current reading...

I'd get armed with a repair kit before starting, something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-5227-Oil-Sump-Repair/dp/B006IRIKR4 Though you need to know what thread size first, maybe you can get that from a spare part listing somewhere

You'd have to take it apart to see first

The 15m2 is internal, had that confirmed by my local authority. Not sure about the overhang though.

Surely you can still receive parcels? Get one posted out to you from toolstation etc.

Oh I made this mistake taping up a broken window on a car, then leaving the tape on for too long! I think in the end I used petrol to dissolve it, certainly took something strong like that or acetone and plenty of elbow grease. Not sure what that would do to the lead though.

Search for "wardrobe switch" quite common to use things like that in bespoke wardrobes, nice and small and light action. You want normally closed yes.

Just make sure to check the speed rating is OK when doing that.

Its not really clear what you mean by it has to go on straight, straight doesn't really relate to anything in that setup? The back of the tensioner with the tab sticking out needs to sit flat against the engine, that tab needs to locate against something to stop it rotating. I've not got...

Just buy it and screw it to the wall?

I prefer a universal type crimper such as these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Bootlace-Ferrule-Hand-Wire-Cord-End-Crimper-Crimping-Tool-Pliers-0-25-10mm/174237351843 Saves having to pick the right die when doing different sizes, and the need for another tool for the doubles. I think 10mm is a...

With the second, if it was the battery connection the light would stay off. I'd suspect the switch (trigger), maybe try some switch cleaner inside it, or dismantle if you can and clean it out

I've found what helped me the most was a decent brush, rather than the cheapest one I'm used to using!

I've found this to happen with out of date cans, bought a case full cheaply before and the first one went in a similar way, right mess. Once I knew to expect it, then i was ready to use the lot in one go. Now I always buy a fresh can right before using it and never had the same trouble.

I wouldn't say its reacted if its just dented where your shoes have pushed on it, I think you'd be able to sand out those problem areas then paint the whole lot again. How long it'll take before you can sand it I have no idea, I painted a door with gloss and ended up leaving it for a few weeks...

If there's no hole then just use a 20mm holesaw to put the opening for the conduit where you want it?

From my limited experience with SBR I dont think you'll be able to paint over it, the stuff I used to prime a floor remained slightly tacky.

The last decent shed I bought had a membrane between the shiplap and the timber frame. Kept the inside completely dry and that was without a gutter, although more roof overhang than your one.

You mean because its not sitting on the floor? cantilevered?