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I am thinking of sealing the edges exposed to the air - they'll either be behind a fascia or overhung by the tiles but still. With PVA or perhaps epoxy resin. Never thought about the cut edges - our roof is 1.5 sheets 'tall' so one cut edge per sheet width right in the middle which isn't so bad...

I hadn't considered that factory edges are pre-sealed. Is this typically the case or do they simply cut the boards from a huge sheet?

Spoke to the UFH supplier. They say the requirement for the additional overlay layer with vinyl is because it is a lot less rigid, so wires will show through. Since LVT is also quite bendy, they say the same applies. What they couldn't tell me is where we stand with rigid LVT which is another...

We're going to fit 20-25m2 aluminium heating mat on a brand new floor. Subfloor is down and the boards between sub-floor and mats are sorted. We had planned to go with vinyl flooring but everyone tells us this needs an additional layer on the mats which we prefer not to do. Our preferred...

Ah I'd missed your deck itself was using thicker timbers, not regular decking boards. Makes sense.

I hadn't thought trying to get hold of used timber, interesting. When I mentioned spans I was actually meaning the longest unsupported distance under the decking boards themselves?

Thanks for sharing @cwhaley, looks a tidy job. If you don't mind me asking what are your spans? 9x2 throughout is pretty heavy duty but I was a little surprised looking online how close together people put joists. Your frame on top reminded me that I want to put a barrier around ours, I think...

We've had a quote to build a decked area against our log cabin, and it details digging in/concreting big posts (possibly 6x6" from memory) as you would gate posts. However I was wondering is this really necessary? Our cabin itself sits on plinth foundations...

This is the actual unit we're aiming for: https://www.locksonline.co.uk/Access-Control/Electronic-Strike-Releases/Magnetic-Locks-/Magnetic-Gate-Locks/Asec-IGEM-5000G-external-magnetic-Gate-Locks.html (datasheet...

I didn't realise that was an option - hadn't looked at the maglock interface in detail. That would be a neat feature - would I be right thinking the same CAt5 cable could do this, I'm not sure if he would be expecting to use all the pairs of wires or if some would be unused/available. Perhaps he...

Cheers John. And Bernard too. Definitely the sort of thing you want to be aware of before you either end up locked in or having your back-door wide open to the public in a power cut ;)

I assume they work differently too... power-to-lock is just a metal plate with an electromagnet, power-to-unlock must use a more traditional bolt/latch and the current pulls the 'bolt' like a solenoid or similar? One imagines the latter can be manually unlocked with a key or something in case...

Power to stay locked. You unlock the gate by breaking the supply My issue here is then you can't just switch the supply from the building to remotely unlock, if you cut the mains supply the battery will just take over :) Of course you can get around this using a separate control wire or wireless...

This is the unit we're contemplating: https://www.locksonline.co.uk/Access-Control/Access-Control-Accessories-/Boxed-Power-Supplies/LocksOnline-12v-DC-Regulated-Boxed-Power-Supplies.html It doesn't actually say the battery type. I figure we'll go for the battery backup just because it doesn't...

Ah I see. I think this is a mains -> DC converter PSU. There is an optional battery but I assume that's just a lithium battery. It's not an alarm system or supply, outside normal hours there will be a physical lock

Don't worry Jake this was obvious to everyone else.

It's just listed as a 12V PSU. Though we didn't buy it yet. Why would it be 13.8 not 12?

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Cool. Did they do it all properly or patch the patches?

Yes that was exactly my point... You might get terrible mortar but it would be very unlikely they'd forget to put mortar in at all. I think you've misread my post.