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Sorry for the delay. Yeah, I could have mentioned this in my initial post..... The switch I need to decommission is the one to the far right, which would be the far left in the pic (the side where the earth cable is). I'll grab a better pic tomorrow. Thanks

Hello, I have a 3 way light switch, one feeds the upstairs light, one downstairs and one that feeds the porch light. I wanted to get rid of the porch light as somebody always switches it off anyway and my hue smart bulb never works. I've also fed from somewhere else now. My question is, how...

I have a small porch I'm in the process of removing and it will become an open space. I have the opportunity to externally insulate the highlighted wall below before applying slate tile cladding. The cladding is heavy (30mm in depth), so I have some concerns and I'm in two minds as to whether...

Hi all, hoping somebody can help. I'm planning on ripping out my current UPVC porch and sliding doors and then build two dwarf walls topped with coping stone. I then plan to sit four oak post on them to hold up the existing concrete roof. (Currently, there is one existing post sat behind where...

Hi Tim, I did the cloaking on Friday and it worked a treat. Thanks for your advice.

Don't worry Tim, you've been more than helpful thanks. I'd assumed the cloaking was hard heavy flat plastic.... I'll be picking some up tomorrow, so I'll have a go. Thanks for your patience :D

That's brilliant, thanks Tim. I don't want to sound dim, but I'm still curious as to how you cut that with a coping saw? Isn't it fairly hard plastic? I can do the mitre no problem. I guess I could use a round file to cut away the material to get the overlap.

Thanks Tim, any examples or videos? I'm just surprised that someone would go to the effort to do this, hence the reason for asking if there was a pair of shears I could buy? I've used coping saws on ogee skirting before but can't see how you'd use that for window cloaking? Maybe I'll just go...

Wow, I never would have thought somebody would route some cloaking. I do have a router but this seems a little extreme.

Here's another photo. Blimey, the door frame looks grubby close up :eek:

Okay, I'll grab another one tomorrow. In the meantime, the top horizontal piece looks to be a normal flat piece of trim but the vertical piece seems to have a profile on it to slot into the horizontal piece.

Hello, I fitted a window at the weekend and have some cloaking to do. I noticed some of the existing cloaking on my other windows had a nice overlapping join. Just wondered how that is achieved and if I need a certain pair of shears or something?

Thanks Luke, I haven't been able to do any electrical testing yet. I was thinking about just taking the punt and trying it but haven't got around to it yet. Have you swapped out what I have before or you just know it'll work from experience?

Thanks, I will take a look and see how I get on.

I'm not getting very far here. I emailed Heatmiser and they said they need to know the resistance at each temperature? Can anyone help me here and let me know how I get this? I've seen a few video's on youtube where people test the heat mat resistance with a multimeter but I'm guessing this...

Okay, hmm, not sure where to go with this then. I have an electrician coming out at some point, I will check to see if he knows or can measure.....

Just got off the phone to Heatmiser. They said it should work but I need to test that I have at least 10k resistance on the current unit?

Ah, what does that entail (tiled floor)?

I've had a rummage through the paperwork left from the previous owners and have actually found the instructions. It's a Homelux LCD thermostat. I've attached the spec sheet below. Can anybody advise if the existing heat mat will work with this Neostat...

Thanks, I'll take a look tomorrow and see what I can find out.