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I'm going to fit a membrane, insulation and then screed on the beam and block floor of my extension. What about the remainder of the wall that now divides old and new? Do both walls remain? Or, is just the outer leaf removed? Or is the inner removed as well such that the insulation layer buts...

Thermal bridging of the steel frame was something I really wanted to minimise. Here is how I did it in the end. I've just updated this post: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/fitting-large-sliding-patio-doors-to-a-steel-frame.593590/

Just to update, here's what I did. Built the steel frame and lined it with 4 by 2 timber fixed with M8 bolts with DPC between timber and steel. Fixed compacfoam to the timber with timberlok screws (I later added a third screw per length of compacfoam): I then put the rafters on because I...

Great info thanks. I'll post some pictures after I start digging!

Yes, originally designed to be outside was my thought as well. House is 1970's so I suppose they just did what they liked although it was a bespoke build for the original land owner. As you say I'll dig down and see. How about running the new waste in that cavity? -It's about 70mm wide so was...

Odd indeed! That whole hopper thing needs to go as it's above floor level. I've no idea why it was done that way.

Hi, The existing waste setup in the kitchen is a bit unusual! The waste enters a drain via a hopper, inside the house, which then goes all the way under the house to a manhole at the front. I want to move the kitchen sink and connect to that existing drain. The new sink will be against the...

I ended up using Prop Pals in the end from a local hire company. A brilliant design by a British builder. All worked a treat. No cracks!

Think I've found a square core drill: Not really!

Thanks Noseall. I didn't realise doubling up a 4by2 would do it for the needles! What's happening inside? Are the timbers on the joist with the joists propped from below? Here are the structural engineer numbers for the replacement steel: Floor = 0.4m x 0.5kN/m2 - Dead full UDL 0.2 kN/m...

Hello, I'm moving a steel into the ceiling void. Is it ok to prop under the floor joists, then have needles in the room above supported on the propped joists? In more detail: I have an existing steel which supports a triple joist, which in turn supports a masonry wall, which in turn supports...

Best advice I've had so far is Timberlok down to the birdsmouth and then put a couple of 75mm nails in skewed in the side. I don't see much guidance written anywhere though.

Mitre the ends. Any gaps and your expensive PIR is essentially useless. The current regs require the joints to be properly sealed eg. with Gapotape. Don't take my word for it though ... listen to the Master: Robin Clevett:

Hello, I have 200x47mm rafters to fix into a wall plate for a lean to roof extension. Has anyone done this with Timberloks? I have a load of 200mm Timberloks left over and was thinking of driving right through from the top of the rafter into the wall plate at the birdsmouth. I've tried a few...

I don’t trust me either:

The hoist was attached through a bracket to an acrow prop that was supported by blocks. The acrow was attached to the house. The scaffold tower really just provided a frame to surround the prop. Very little actual load on the tower.

Yes but I braced it with a bit of string and some 4 by 2. (Not really.)

Ready ... Steady ... Cook ... I mean Go...

I didn't realise I'd get a choice! Great, I'll bring me mum.

The scaffold is not actually taking the side loads. The hoist is attached to the acrow. The acrow is braced along its length through ropes to the house structure. The acrow prop is taking the vertical load to the ground. It did successfully lift the steel a few feet without budging until the...