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It might be a good idea NOT to use the word "current" (if you mean "existing") when writing/talking about "existing" electrical devices, since "current" has a certain specific meaning in Electrical Technology.

Why not? Matching what? Quinetic switches come in several versions. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Quinetic/index.html https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUGDMK.html "The Quinetic wireless grid switch is compatible with MK grid plus system and can be installed into MK grid plus...

The difference between 2700 K and 3000 K is more than 11% and quite easily discernable - at least, for me! The difference between 3000K and 4000 K is over 30% and a great improvement. After candles (1000 K to 2000 K) and Gaslight (1850 K to 2400 K) - with the higher figure using "Gas...

Using "sealed" "recessed downlights" (i.e. complete "Units") is not being "suckered". These complete "Units" last at least as long as plug-in LED lamps (if not longer) often cost little more and are quite easy to replace - with their spring clips - in the larger ceiling holes which they...

I completely agree with the above. Hopefully, you will not need to have the "Supply" connections and the Meter changed/moved - at your expense. A new Consumer Unit is required, with RCBOs for all circuits. (Even the existing "Extra Low Voltage" "Bell Wiring" is poorly done - and should be...

Having the Colour Temperature of 3000 K would be a vast improvement on the sickly yellow colour that is 2700 K - in my opinion. Even better would be to use 4000 K lighting throughout - again, in my opinion. When you do (eventually) get around to replacing the old Halogen 12 V limited angle...

I suggest that you use an Epoxy Resin - such as Araldite. https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=araldite&crid=15HHVYGYNS0PS&sprefix=araldite%2Caps%2C351&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 Use only the smallest amount possible and hold the lens in place with "sellotape", while the resin sets. (24 hours) Epoxy resin...

After checking on several UK Electrical/Lighting sites, it seems that "Downlight" in the UK largely refers to those with small replaceable Halogen/LED "globes", However, I did find one site with that which they refer to as Recessed Downlights, which utilize a larger cutout and the light from...

Botswana and South Africa use the same type of electrical Plugs and Socket-Outlets Type M. These Plugs and socket-Outlets use three round pins, with one larger pin for grounding. This plug is officially known as BS 546. The Type M plug was once the UK standard plug, before the change over to...

As others have written, that is a "Dual Socket-Outlet". Such an "Outlet" supplies "Electrical Energy". (Firstly Voltage and, if the conductors are adequate, [and the Circuit Breaker does not "Trip"] - Current) Then, the Rate at which this Energy is supplied is "Power".

Stop "mucking about" with "soon-to-be obsolete" fluorescent lamps (or "replacement LEDs") and replace it with a Circular LED Panel", such as one of those in https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Lighting_Menu_Index/Circular_LED_Panel/index.html

Interesting suggestions. However, to "Measure the resistance between the earth socket on the dishwasher socket and the earth bar in the consumer unit - should be very low." may require quite a long length of additional "Test Wire" - and (possibly) "clips". Again "Measure the resistance between...

That is what I thought also. The original installer of the CU is also to "blame", since it should have been obvious that, in the future, a "Door-Opener" may be installed. In addition, is there not a "regulation" in the UK which stipulates that a CU must not be installed above a certain height...

Check for voltage - or lack of it - between all three socket connections. Since you appear to be able to use a meter, with the "power" and switch ON, you should read 230 V (or so) between Line and Neutral AND Line and Earth. Zero voltage (or almost Zero) between Neutral and Earth.

Interesting comment. However, it is only by "convention" that Switches" are used on most UK Socket-Outlets - where they are not REQUIRED - (please correct me if I am wrong in this) BUT such Switches are REQUIRED in Australia and New Zealand. As far as I am aware, such Switches are NOT...

You seem to be using the wrong "quote" to make some sort of "jocular" criticism. Black insulated and White insulated are the Line and Neutral conductor's insulation (respectively) used in North America!

How did you "test" it? A non-contact Voltage-Tester may give you a false indication. Test only with a Low Impedance Voltmeter between Neutral and Earth - and Neutral an Line.

I do wonder how any "Induction Motor", (which operates via the Magnetic Field provided from the Supply) could generate any Voltage - while "spinning down" - without the "Magnetic Field" - which was provided only from the "Current Supplied". An "Induction Motor" contains no "Permanent Magnet"...

Before I go any further, I apologize to you - and others - for being "critical" of one who (so far) has only five Posts on this topic. (At least one "jocular" comment already has been posted.) It is almost certain that the "appliance" has/had an internal fault (Short-Circuit) which caused an...

While I do not know the "source" of the existing (rusty) "Light Fitting", you (and others) should be aware that the North American "convention" is for the Line Conductor to be insulated Black (or [infrequently]] Red) and the Neutral Conductor to be insulated White. Many "foreign" products...