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Hello everyone, I have a water filter and water softener and would like to connect them to the rigid pipework which is 22mm and 28mm with flexible tap connectors. The ones I already have here have a small internal diameter, about 13mm. I am looking for something better, if it exists...

I think I will simply have to take off (break up) the plasterboards and get access to the underside of the flange. Then new plasterboard, skimming, painting...

I have access to the flange but it implies breaking up decorative and skimmed plasterboard sections (steel beam is boxed in). Also I have fitted noggins inside the web and if by bad luck I land on a noggin then its going to be even more awkward. Just thinking aloud. probably I will have to...

It is for a balustrade very similar to this picture. The bolts go into the base channel before you slot the glass in. Need to be super strong about 380kg horizontal force at 1m height and at every one metre.

I would like to bolt down a railing base over a steel beam, and it requires 12mm bolts. Ideally I would drill a 12mm hole into the steel flange, then fix it with a 12mm bolt from the top and a nut from below. However I do not have easy (or any) access to the space inside the beam and so I cannot...

I was thinking if that is the case or are there obstructions inside that make it impossible to insert the electrical element. I will have to ask the seller(s) but I doubt they would themselves even know.

I am trying to find an electrical, horizontal towel rail and it is proving difficult. There is much better choice if it were a CH type (not electric). Would it be possible to fit an electrical heating element into an ordinary towel radiator? Would it fit? Those electrical elements are 1/2" BSP...

I have been working in the small cloakroom. I am attaching photos from before pouring the slab to today. I trimmed the soil pipe rising up from the floor and looked inside and noticed a piece of rubber caught inside the pipe. This rubber is the seal of the flexible pan connector they used...

Thinking aloud: Above this bathroom there is a staircase and bedrooms upstairs (in the loft space). I could run a vertical, rectangular vent pipe to the roof through the floor and a bedroom upstairs. I would box it in, and it would be adjacent to a partition wall. Aside of the trouble of...

Is venting through the soil pipes not complying with regulations? In this thread, up to now, it is being debated. Unless you know for sure?

Ahh, I already have 3 soil vent pipes around the house. I will not ask my BC man. I will leave it as is, and if he spots it during final inspection, then we cross that bridge.

I did not describe it properly. My idea is to build a "box" inside which there is an AAV (durgo valve) (one way valve pulling air from the room but not allowing air to go into the room), then a "strong" fan, and then a pipe of some diameter which is connected to the soil pipe at the back of the...

Have a toilet in the middle of the house with no way to vent outside. Saw on dragons den (YouTube) a fan pushing airflow at the top of the soil pipe behind the toilet. So I was thinking a vertical circuit with AAV then the fan then into the top of the soil pipe behind the toilet. Has anyone...

Hi everyone, I want to install a glass balustrade on the landing upstairs. There are a few places to buy the glass and the top and bottom rails from, but I must provide the newel posts. The balustrade runs directly over and along a steel beam. The newel posts will be fixed onto the steels...

Hello, I have bought and installed 18mm, tongue and groove, varnished engineered wood flooring. It has a very good fit with no gaps in between boards (if it is done well, which I mostly did). While installing it, and with my glasses on, I noticed that the wear layer, the 5mm oak at the top, is...

About 50% of the boards are 500mm, so my maximum joint overlap is 250mm. There are 2 main reasons I might want to T&G the boards. First I am trying desperately to remove sections with knots, leaving me with two pieces that can only be used at the start or the end of a row. Secondly I may need...

Has anyone got or used a tongue and groove machine with engineered wood boards? I tried cutting a groove using the table saw, made it, but it is not a simple task, and I presume the tongue could be done with the router. But if I had a machine then I'd be able to use many more offcuts (eg...

I am looking at a new concealed cistern. The provided flush valve seems to have a small bit cut off at the bottom, leaving only 3 mm for the rubber washer to make a good seal. I do not understand why they did this, but a leak there would be impossible to repair once the bathroom is tiled. I...

I have brand new concealed cistern and I want to make modifications. The inlet hole on the sides is 20mm as is the diameter of the provided inlet valve and looking at alternative inlet valves they mention 1/2". Is this normal?

My £350-£400 central heating pump is made in Serbia/Croatia/Romania - one of those. It is a lump of metal. Prices are what they are these days.