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Are you registered? I now see that you mention replacing the thermostat/timer/receiver but the factory link is still in place. The boiler is working as expected.

From the UU point of view there's nothing to be done...9 litres/min almost certainly complies with their minimum requirements..on my old patch 8 was deemed sufficient.

It's pretty obvious to see the difference between 9 litres/min and 20 odd litres/min but surely it's not beyond anyone on here to calculate the flowrate as the boundary box fills with water. Also be aware that some of these caps appear to restrict the flowrate so you might want to look into that...

The blanking cap is where a water meter would screw on. Turn off the water and have a look under the cap (open a tap to relieve pressure). AFAIK these meter manifolds are fitted with single or double check valves on the meter outlet part. So you might find the check valve is full of debris...

I'm not arguing with your petty interpretations. For the OP the meter should be attached to the wall... or floor...

Don't be an ar5e...you can plainly see a meter swinging on a flexi and old lead pipe is unsafe and G11 3.11 makes reference to poorly supported pipework.

The meter installation is classed as "At Risk". This is an industry standard category and it should not have been left "as is" without some plan of action ie. making safe. It's not a case of "nice to have". Meters and pipework must be adequately supported. Although lead can be left, given it's...

Are you happy to be part of his conspiracy to evade tax? It might get very awkward should the job go wrong and you need to issue a CCJ etc. I'd bin him off for for his greed and not including the work it in the quote. The meter needs a bracket to secure it and the lead replaced with copper...£10...

Many toll booths around Normandy have now gone and they're using ANPR to track you, Payment must be made within 72 Hrs here https://www.sanef.com/index-en.html No need to create and account, very quick and easy. The speed cameras that I came across recently (over Granville way) are fairly...

The pin rises with the pump running..it's part of the safety system ensuring sufficient water in the primary heat exchanger and the pump is circulating. Differential pressure (between the pump inlet and primary hex outlet) is applied to the diaphragm below the pin. I'd first check the filter in...

I've got a Hyundai quiet air compressor..it does the job but the quality is dire. They badge up junk. I don't trust the cylinder (so much rusty water when draining) after only 18 months. The threads could have been cut with a grinder they're so poorly formed.

Here's common heater fitted to some unvented cylinders...there's barely room for 1.5mm cable.

In this case the 2mm extra diameter of the larger cable makes it impossible to fit safely...the cable clamp will not accommodate that size and due to the ever decreasing size and cheapening down of immersion heaters the cores would be under significant strain when routed from the clamp to the...

Is the pipework compliant with the boiler installation instructions? Further guidance here https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.hhic.org.uk/uploads/5FF598A848C3F.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj48fz0x_aPAxV2QkEAHSq2Hm4QFnoECDEQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3O3KhHVQAXJJvbKWXcV5em There...

T&E has never been acceptable to feed an immersion heater. I'm only talking round cable here. On a recent job the cable clamps supplied with the immersion heaters were not suitable for the existing 2.5mm² round cable....so the contractor binned off the cable clamps and left the elements with no...

The cable clamps inside immersion heaters are often designed for a maximum cable size of 1.5mm² so is it compliant to use that sized cable with a 16A MCB alone (and no FCU). I'm after answers from qualified electricians...

Often the spring lugs break off and the valve doesn't fully return leaving the microswitch closed despite the motor being unpowered.

Everyone ok with using 1.5mm² to the immersion heater (that's what the cable clamps designed for) on a 16A breaker?

Push the black button in on the side and remove the actuator...