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Have an electric shower on standby. When your combi packs in at Christmas and you have no hot water or heating you'll appreciate it. Personally I think your priorities are wrong and a combi is a really bad idea for such a large house. Installers will shove in whatever suits them and of course...

Probably trapped air in a redundant hot feed pipe or elsewhere in the domestic pipework. These should be cut out for compliance.

Nothing is standard with hob sizes..all down to luck.

That's the rating at high temperatures but you design accordingly. Electrolytics can last a 100,000 hours and more.

That component is a 1mH choke....I suggest you chuck the lot in the bin. Most of that board operates at lethal voltage and given the comments so far, any attempt at repair would be ill advised.

Google Anderson Powerpole

Wind the PTFE tape to form a taper on the tap thread and wrap the thread with sufficient turns to tighten the tap such that you end up winding in most of the thread but can set the tap vertical without running out of threads or it being too loose.

E5's a well known fault code...very often caused by the old rope burner seal (it was replaced for a graphite material) and/or failing ignition module so call the gas eng. back.

Just buy an industry standard workbench (mine are 935mm high) and a draughtsman swivel chair.

I assume the room thermostat wireless receiver is very close to the boiler and it's wiring is surface mounted and probably fine. That only leaves the diverter actuator in the boiler...a leak on the valve spindle could find it's way into the actuator (that operates at 240v).

More likely your system just needs balancing..if you've got 10 to 20 degrees between the flow and return and the lower area is cold then that's probably sludge but it's a very rare occurrence.

Given the location I'd say it's almost certainly a bridge rectifier enabling the gas valve to be energised with DC (ie. rectified 240 V mains) so before having a new pcb fitted check the gas valve solenoid resistance (and to earth).

Take a look at the installation manual but the safety valve is a 15mm pipe that usually terminates on the outside of an external wall.

Just my guess but perhaps it's a pressure relief valve...do the rubber edges lift up? Say someone failed to use the cooker correctly and cooked a sealed vessel..it might prevent the door glass shattering.

Your pics don't show the outlet of the F&E cistern but ideally you would join the feed to the safety pipework at that outlet level making sure there is no chance of airlocks from rising pipework etc.. To comply fully with the regs the feed should be upgraded to 22mm (ie the outlet of the...

If you pist pics of the Feed & Expansion cistern and associated pipework it would help to clarify where the connection should be. If the pipework layout is incorrect then it's futile to faff about with pump speeds as you're just masking the real issues. The pressures around the system are...

The pipework looks to be a bodge job...with several issues including a safety flaw. Could you confirm that the 22mm pipe running down on the right and tee'ing in to the pump inlet is the safety vent and the 15mm tee'ing into the cylinder return near the red valve is the feed and expansion pipe...

Has the system got an additional expansion vessel (red coloured) as the boilers vessel will be undersized to cope with the no. of rads and the higher volume of cast iron rads. If there's no additional vessel you should check the boiler safety valve for drips and if this is the case it could be a...

Could be an Audi R8

AFAIR you can preset the valve flow with a special tool from Drayton. ie. they can act as a tamper proof lockshield. Google Drayton D34 for starters..