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The paint isn’t sound unfortunately after a variety of bad paint jobs over the years. Lots of flaking & too much paint. I’ve already got draft strips/beads & new pulleys from Mighton ready to go in.

I've got some sash windows to strip of multiple layers of paint which are 2 floors up in a victorian block with other flats below. I can get the windows out no problem and strip them inside but I need to find a good way of stripping the frames without all the cr*p ending up in the outdoor area...

I’m looking at this UFH solution for an upcoming project on suspended timber floors. https://www.omnie.co.uk/torfloor/ It’s the only solution I’ve found which gives a low floor build up and is designed to replace the structural floor. It comprises a routed 22mm chipboard sheet with a foil...

Won't the 22mm from the cylinder to the 1st floor where it splits off to the 3 bathrooms mean a longer wait for hot water? Assuming the feed from stopcock to cylinder is in 22mm then with a flow rate of 20l p/m and 3.5 pressure mean the outlets on 1st floor can all be in 15mm (3 showers, 3...

I think I've figured it out, looking at the site above they sell a PoE to USB power adaptor that converts 24v to 5v. In my case I have a PoE switch that outputs 48v and I found a 48V to 5v micro USB splitter cheap on Amazon that will do it. I can stick this in the back box and mount the tablet...

I'm looking to wall mount a tablet (probably Android) to run Action Tiles so it will show CCTV & various sensor status. The wall mount part is straight forward as there appear to be plenty of universal holders on eBay that will mount it against the wall. I was thinking to sink a double back...

If you can access the live feed, switched live and neutral above the light fitting then what about a Sonoff relay which supports NO & NC contacts. This way you can wire the pull switch in to create a 2 way circuit. This is a 4CH one but there must be 1/2 CH versions available...

Has anyone come across a twin socket mains outlet that has a built in Zigbee repeater? I'm trying to find one that would extend the range on a Samsung Smartthings multi sensor but also be able to control whatever is plugged into it via either the Smartthings app or Alexa etc. I've seen plenty...

I'm renovating a property which after works are complete will be 5 beds, 4 bathrooms. All 4 bathrooms will have rain head showers and one will also have a bath. Incoming CW supply is in 25mm MDPE to internal stopcock and then 15mm to CW outlets. Pressure is 3.5bar & flow rate just over 20l p/m...

I’m installing some IP68 RGBW LED strips in a bathroom ceiling where the centre part of the ceiling is dropped slightly to create a wall wash effect around the perimeter of the room. Strips will connect to a centre point above the ceiling. Ideally I’d like to find a combined LED controller &...

What is the recommended preparation when applying two layers of Soundshield plasterboard (or equivalent) to a ceiling with Resilient bar in place? I've screwed up the 1st layer of 15mm to the resilient bar & 2nd layer of 12.5mm is ready to go. I've read that staggering the joints is recommended...

I was looking at using AC50 to fit some fire rated boards around an RSJ. Looking at the tech notes for AC50 it says non-flammable but no fire rating info. Can it be used to fix noggins to vertical faces of the RSJ & also to fix fire boards on bottom face of RSJ?

I've seen a few threads on other forums talking about using Cat6 as speaker cable but recommendation is to braid it which sounds like a ball ache. My setup is a multi-room 6 channel LivingControl Roombox6 which I'm planning to use to drive ceiling speakers in several rooms. Some of these...

I'm looking to create a 'Smart' Alarm system in my house that will work predominately on Wifi/RF but with the option for cabling if needed. I'm not looking to have a full alarm operational with arm/disarm daily when we are not there due to potential of false alarms with cats, a lodger & young...

Quick progress update (progress being slow due to only being able to work in the evenings!) I started the resilient bar install after the 100mm of RW3 insulation between the ceiling joists. I opted for the acoustic foam between the bar & bottom of the joist. Luckily the foam is self adhesive...

Should do, I read somewhere that with resilient bars spaced at 400mm, maximum loading is 35kg per m2. Have you got a plasterboard lifter to get them up to the ceiling? I think I'll ditch the green glue idea, too expensive. Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) is my next thought, a 2mm thick layer is 5kg/m2...

That seems to be the whole thing about soundproofing after endless nights of research! Bit of a grey area with so many variables, differing claims of DB reduction and installation methods. My next thought is whether to put anything between the sheets of plasterboard when double boarding. I've...

One thing I'm thinking of doing as well is getting a solid rubber strip and cutting small bits to put between the joist and resi-bar before screwing to the joists to help with impact noise. Whether it makes and difference remains to be seen!

Quite a way to go yet as I'm only doing it in the evenings. I've nearly finished cutting & fitting the RW3 between the joists. I decided to cut the RW3 on the short length to minimise wastage, more work but it will save money. I ordered a load of resi-bar from the local builders merchant, they...

Ceiling is down yes, not a difficult job just very messy due to the amount of sh*t accumulated between the joists over 100 years! (gas mask essential) If your joists are spaced evenly and you know there isn't much in the way (noggins, old pipes, wiring etc) then you might get away with pushing...