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My ageing Mira event thermostatic power shower cut out the other day, prior to this the pump motor was sounding a little rough, still maintaining pressure though. I checked the motor brushes and these were worn right down with virtually nothing left. I renewed the brushes as the price of parts...

Cheers thanks for the advice. On closer inspection I found that the drum was actually not spinning at all again. I took the machine to bits and found a broken wire. Fixed the broken wire and everything is fine again :D

My Whirlpool W120 will not spin, it just continues at a slower speed pumping out the water but not spinning until the timer reaches the stop position. I cannot hear any clicking noise for the spin to start. I have repaired plenty of faults on the machine in the past, so I am willing to have...

Will do cheers again :D

Cheers again thanks very much for the advice. I have went over this and it all seems clear. Except T8 (com) on the ST699, does this just need a live linked to it and nothing else?

Thanks mate I think you have explained it really well I know what to do. Just one last question, the ST699 currently has T3 & T7 linked, and it also has T5 & T6 linked. Should I just remove these now or leave these in place? Just wondered if both were needed with using the CM907 to control...

Thats great advice mate. Thanks so much for the priceless advice. Regarding the valve I took the top off it as I know it had the position printed on there but that probably means nothing. Anyway hopefully they have got that correct. I took a photo of the valve as I was not totally sure, as...

Cheers mate I have looked in a little more depth, at what is going to T5 and T6 in the wiring centre. And you are correct the cylinder stat has 3 wires. This is the updated list. 1) Switched live from CH Programmer Pin 3, to Red wire on CH heating room stat. 2) All the neutrals (blue) go...

I spent a lot of time messing around with a multi-meter yesterday and this system has been very badly wired. The CH room stat is only switching the 3-way mid position valve, and the circulating pump. The programmer is starting the boiler, the only way round it is to turn the stat right up and...

Cheers mate thta is spot on, I will have to try that. I already tried swapping the red and yellow wires around on the CM907 to see if that is an easy fix but that solved nothing, still behaved the same which is odd. Will try the method you have suggested. Thanks very much for taking the time...

Cheers thanks very much for taking the time to reply. I am sure that you are correct I have wired the stat wrong, the wires need swapped around as the permanent live red wire is on Terminal 3 of the time/programmer. I am not that sure that I understand how to bypass the programmer though...

I posted a couple weeks back on here about problems with my central heating pump and 3-way zone valve not opening when I selected heating on my programmer, but the boiler was starting. So after some great advice off cjb1971, I linked out the red and yellow wires on the wall thermostat...

Thanks Cjb1971 linking out the yellow and red wires has got the system working. I obviously need a new stat, I was wondering if fitting a digital one will be easy? Have I got enough wires for one of these stats and what are these wires for please? It has a Red, Yellow, and Blue wire. Or am I...

Thanks for the replies guys. The stat is a room stat on the wall it is an old Honeywell T6160B. It has three wires going to it a red, yellow and blue. I am hoping that it is wired correctly as I knocked it off the wall a while ago and got a replacement dirt cheap off ebay and wired it the...

I am sure that this is an electrical problem. I was messing about trying a spare old thermostat that I had and the heating came on for a while, i.e the valve opened and I could tell the pump was running and all radiators got hot. I then switched the electric off again to refit the thermostat...

I am not sure that I have air in the system John, I just thought that I would of been able to tell if the pump was running or not. It just seems dead. Thanks for the good advice though.

My heating is currently not working properly, the hot water is working fine though. It is quite an old system, Thorn EMI back boiler, with hot water cylinder upstairs and header tank in the loft. It has a 3 way Honeywell divertor valve. The boiler is firing up when heating is selected on the...

Moving sounds like a very good option, but then again why bother about neighbours.

Cheers Nikso that is much clearer now, I shall check it out. But probably just try a motor first. Cheers :D

Sorry Agile it just not that clear to me as I have not a clue about this type of valve. I take it to see this bump the syncron motor has to be removed first as it is not a bump on the motor itself? Thanks Nikso I may try just replacing the motor. My logic behind changing the head was that...