Search results

Good point, I didn't look through all the photos, that is plain lazy, looks like they got to those courses and hadn't allowed for them but couldn't add extra tile as it wouldn't line up

depends upon the nature of the works. anything from just taping polythene over doors to building temporary stud walls to section off whole areas of the house all depends on the nature and duration of the dusty works.

I wouldn't bother with an LDC in fact probably best not to contact the council on the subject. Use the explanation given above and offer an indemnity policy if it really becomes a problem. As there is virtually no risk of enforcement the indemnity will almost certainly be cheaper than the LDC. I...

they come in many shapes and sizes the last one we did was similar to what Jones describes it had a 200mm toe thickening to 450 for 600mm and then tapering to a 150 slab with a 250 cube thickening at an abutment with another building. It was also cantilevered on a 350 tapered thickening...

it could have been tiled closer in but you will have got more kick up. with a bit of work it could have probably been a bit better but I have seen worse. he could have made the cuts on the other side of the tiles i.e into the last tile rather than into the window. I agree it looks crap.

Are you saying the wall is sitting along the length of the joist, if so just widen the pocket and sister it up

Not sure what you mean by half the size of the house, it's about increase in volume of the roof space. then it's as Ian and Tony have said, as I explained originally. Why are you wanting to calculate the volume of your whole house. Your Dormer will when finished be 10 meters wide by 5 meters...

as you are doing carefully chip it off

I'm sure that's not what the Op wants to hear. Use 18mm with packers underneath

F & B is horrible stuff but that aside eggshell really doesn't touch up very well

As I said before they won't give you a problem, your sewer invert is only half a meter below the ground level so you can build within 100mm provided your founds are below the invert of the sewer.

can't be sure of you're current volume due to the hips but your new dormer once raised to gables is going to be 5mx10mx2m=100m3 so half of that alone is going to be your 50m3 increase and that is before taking into account the raising of the gables. You will almost certainly be into planning...

just buy some 150mm wide joist hangers the depth of them doesn't matter whether you are using 100mm or 200mm deep timber

why ? just fit a new latch somewhere else

cut your 40mm hole in a bit of 6mm play with a hole saw. Clamp it to your piece in the correct position and then use it as a guide for a 40mm forstner bit in a drill press. This is the easiest way to be cutting your holes anyway.

what's the application that requires it to be fire rated also what rating are you trying to achieve.

my mate used to do this for a living up until about 4 years ago and he was charging about that, to repair take apart strip and repaint sashes off site, strip and repaint boxes, re-string and draft proof, in Oxford

pictures would be useful so we can see what condition the walls are in. Get the paint and paper off and then lets go from there

You can do what you like, but BC won't like it. I know it's not very helpful to you as you are trying to save head height, but it is only 25mm, could you not batten out the ceiling at 90 degrees to your joists to create cross ventilation, then you won't need anywhere near as many vents, a couple...

Not great but should be OK, the problem you have is that, that lower step is a very short run. When the drip edges on a GRP roof are formed the glass matting is lapped over the profiles, which results in a thickening at that point. On an ordinary length run the water would gain a bit of speed as...