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But one on it's own doesn't necessarily form a contract... just because the payment has gone via a third party doesn't mean there is a necessarily a contract with that third party, particularly if there is clear sight of an obvious contract with the person carrying out the works. And in this...

yep in the right context, then putting back original or features contemporary to the period of the house will enhance it. Whereas 4" gyproc coving has never been contemporary to any architectural period and in my opinion never looks right, same as ornate Georgian coving in a new build house...

If it is just a stain and completely dried out then 123 would probably sort it. As for your previous attempt one coat of emulsion really isn't enough stain or no stain

If you want to carry out works to your driveway that are all legal and above board it's got nothing to do with her. Sorting her wall out might be the easiest and cheapest option for you. Actually by the way she sounds maybe not the easiest. Photo would help

if you can just get the indemnity in place, for 5 year old works it should be peanuts

......unless the third party did issue new terms of engagement. Then if they did and the OP let the survey go ahead he has then engaged the 3rd party, under the new terms and his contract is with them, it doesn't matter whether the money was paid by the first surveyors or via a clearing house in...

that's what I would do. It will just sit in the system awaiting your input.

yep..that's the criteria

as has been said put mineral wool in at ceiling tie level and all's good. Definitely don't go with concrete tiles on those rafters. Whereabouts is the property, might be able to put you in touch with a decent roofer, if down South Cardiff/Newport area

do you have any scaffold on the front roof, if so lash something over the top and down to that, if not maybe into the front windows. The minute you take a roof off and leave the ceilings exposed you need to have a plan/structure to protect the inside. As you have seen recently even half an hours...

yep all sounds plausible and reasonable.

Not really, I started as I had back issues a fair few years back and I was having to see an osteopath pretty much every week, sometimes twice. He eventually said I can't keep doing this to you or I am going to cause you more damage than I can solve. He pointed out the problems with the building...

with dipping it depends on how good the dipper is and whether he's lazy or not. If dipped for the right amount of time, joints should stay fine but it takes a bit more effort with the scarper to get them clean. Alternatively you can leave them in for longer, all the paint falls off by itself...

that's going to be your problem, all the non cementitious adhesives are going to be premixed and they aren't really suitable for porcelain and certainly not of that format

you need to run all your tiles up the pitched roof with soakers right to the top and then cut a lead saddle which will either cover the top set of soakers so that you can leave the angled cut of the fascia a way from the pitched tiles slightly or send the fascia right into the pitched tiles...

That's what I usually do anyway. As suggested you could take a couple or three courses off and open the gauge slightly, how does it work out when you get round the other side of the window though. I agree with Datarebal and your roofer, guy, get some tile and a halfs

almost certainly a blockage. Only way to find out is get up there and take a look

unless your going to use small mosaics again I wouldn't bother, just tile over it.

yeah you should be ok, but would have been better off with 12.5mm board. Skimming is always the better job, but taping and jointing you should be able to do yourself.

yeah a couple of nicks and lines but for a first go that's pretty impressive. there's plasterers out there who have been doing it for years that wouldn't freehand edges as well as that. You've obviously got the knack some people get it straight away, some never get it.