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The fan is there to run the power supply within spec, there is a ventilation requirement in the datasheet and I wouldn't recommend burying something like that within a plasterboard void. You could segment the LED strip and use multiple drivers instead.

I've never heard of any issues with Philips Master lamps. I've still got many that are over 10 years old. Given the LEDs are all their own lumileds parts, I'd certainly trust that and the specifications far more over something from 'Home Bargains', whatever that is.

I highly recommend the Philips lamps with the central optics to distribute the light. They give a really even pattern and seem to last well. Something like these: https://amzn.to/3M0LWmj

Something not right there, we have pretty heavy use, a couple of A/C units, electric cooking, servers etc. Electricity for us is £200 per month. Not much chance of switching to anything meaningful at the moment. Variable is probably the lowest rate of all.

But you could have a bunch of junction boxes along the ring final each with a single spur, or a single junction box with a bunch of single spurs from that one point.

Technically there's no limit as to how many spurs from a single junction box, provided the conductors can be terminated appropriately.

I missed the last line of the original post, V-Tac are terrible.

The JCC Skytile panels seem fine with long service life.

Looks like terminal blocks that have melted rather than hot glue

Why confuse the matter with the fan timer? Just connect the permanent line and switched line from the fan together, and connect this to the switched line from the PIR. This leaves the PIR in control of the timing for all items. Your assumption was generally correct though with your diagram -...

Wrong, since the OP is asking about intermittent use ("a few bursts"), not continuous or thermostatically controlled. When it's turned off, the latent heat is not necessarily useful.

Whole house power factor can change significantly. Things on standby are a typical cause, since the low duty cycle of switch mode supplies gives an extremely low power factor. According to my load meter, the power factor fluctuates anywhere from 0.4 to 0.85 during the day.

I agree generally. They're useless in the most part and will always over report power consumption.

That's not true for the intermittent use the OP is enquiring about. Oil filled radiator would use more energy because of the latency.

Treat the damp issue first!!

You may want to consider a convector heater if the fan in a fan heater is too noisy, you can also get some with a boost fan should you need to use it. Certainly it will probably be more economical than an oil heater - that is, the the room will heat quicker but will also cool quicker the moment...

You'll be better off with a fan heater if you want a quick burst of heat. Get one with a thermostat if possible

That's a pretty nonsense list. MK, Crabtree and Schneider should all serve well.

At what point do we consider a string of 40 lamps to be more than one point? The use of an isolation transformer is generally only beneficial where just one single item is powered from it such that the risk of anything other than a single point failure meets your AFAP criteria.

That's done to prevent Class I devices from having a chassis at a different potential to mains earth. Every isolation transformer will have some coupling from primary to secondary. More advanced users will use isolation transformers that do not have this permanent connection.