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Which terminal with no wires in it?

Honestly if you're doing DfM for parts like this, the last thing you'd want is a 2m length of string to contend with during the assembly of the switch mechanism. These devices aren't made linearly and the pull cord string will be a separate part likely coming in from another supplier for final...

Switch direction should be correct if the inscriptions on the switch are to be believed. Essentially the wiring should look exactly the same only flipped top to bottom.

The one from bes is £40 delivered. It's a drop in replacement module, so just go for that.

Old Switch - New Switch COM - L1 L1 - L3 L2 - L2 There is a dividing line to be aware of, the connections are actually swapped top and bottom physically. The dividing line shows which terminals to use for each gang.

The switch manufacturer are not necessarily the same as the parts integrator/assembler. You've always been able to buy replacement cords for pull-switches and they are designed to be replaced at the plastic connector near the top.

Most of this isn't technical ;)

I'm amazed this discussion is still going on. The electrical isolation is afforded by the switch itself, not the cord.

TBH Delroy doesn't pretend to be something he isn't and the state of the installations he tends to deal with would probably give the supersparks a heart attack. We don't know whether he mentioned the state of that consumer unit, but at the same time he's not leaving it worse than it was...

Many plate switches are IP22. Some just put IP2X across the entire range of accessories though. If you deconstruct a standard switch, there are a lot of features which prevent water providing a creepage path to the switch contacts. IMO they are pretty safe in the bathroom, the kitchen is more...

Yes, it's perfectly fine.

The tail would refer to the part which connects to the radiator. If you can get PTFE tape on the compression joint between the tail and the valve that would be impressive as they are quite different to a normal compression joint. This is all still irrelevant though.

You look to have plenty of cable there for modification. It would be acceptable to use some kind of maintenance free junction box under the floor for example a Wagobox or a (pair of) Hager J503s depending on whether you keep that socket on the ring, or configure it as a spur. Possibly if you...

I've never come across radiator tails that are anything other than threaded fittings. Either way, this is all basically irrelevant

Similarly it can be the result of people using the pull cord as the on/off switch for the shower. Once the contacts get a bit pitted the contact resistance increases and everything melts

The radiator tails certainly need PTFE tape or cord (y)

Still guessing here, but I would assume this is how it was originally wired. Given one piece of T&E looks to be quite different to the other (grey jacket is stuck to the inner core) I don't think the T&E from the switch to the downstairs rose or the 3C&E existed previously. A single red was...

Looks pretty straightforward to me. 3C&E from landing light - L(R) N(B) SL(Y) T&E from landing switch to downstairs switch = strappers (R + B) T&E from landing switch to hall rose = L(R) and N(B) from the Red and Blue 3C&E T&E from hall rose to hall switch = L(R) and SL(B) Hall switch uses L(R)...

There appears to be 3 cables leaving that upstairs switch though

There may be special applications that require it for different purposes.