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Decided to treat myself to a new step ladder, as my old faithful has basically had it after many years of abuse. It also gives me a chance to get a slightly taller one, as its only 4-tread. Can anybody recommend any brands? Ideally I'd prefer one with a platform, and decent feet that aren't...

TBH this was my original thought, I'd probably do it if i was doing the job, but always careful of any advice coming back to haunt me!

Talking of which, reminds me of a 'handyman' that my mate recruited to add some shelves to his kitchen on a stud wall. He put them up with nylon plasterboard plugs and didn't mention anything about how much weight the shelf would hold... my mate was rudely awoken in the night by the sound of...

Yeah that may be a bit deep. You can patch the holes with BAL quickset render probably. I know you've ruled it out due to space but normally in these situations I'd just board the walls out and tile on the boards.

Away from wet areas I've just used regular plasterboard if its being skimmed and painted. Green isn't going to hurt though. Regarding plaster, do you mean finish plaster and was it skimmed recently? Plaster is relatively weak compared to the brick wall, so be careful about the weight of the...

As Bob says it is worth checking for damp. On a chimney breast it can be as simple as rain coming down the flue, or damaged pointing on the stack. Any signs of damp elsewhere in the room? What is behind the chimney, another room or exterior? Was that air vent covered over before you stripped...

Tiling over bonding is generally a bad idea as it sucks all the moisture out of the adhesive. How deep are the imperfections? If they aren't too bad, I'd be tempted to fill them with tile adhesive in advance and let it go off a bit before doing the tiling job. In terms of adhesive, I'd recommend...

It really does depend on many factors such as the security of the artex, the weight of the tiles (are they large-format tiles? how thick are they), and also whether this area will get wet. Bear in mind that tile adhesive is wet, and therefore can actually be the cause of the artex failing! I...

On the exterior corner, you'd need a metal anglebead. If you aren't confident with skimming the boards fully with multifinish, then a decent finish can be obtained with perseverance, joint compound and a lot of sanding! Have a watch of this

I like dulux trade supermatt.

I know opinion is divided on this one, but I personally think its a risk to tile over it. Whilst the adhesive will stick, the weight of the tiles could pull the artex off the wall. Artex can normally be steamed off, but beware, older artex could contain asbestos and you don't want to be messing...

What is the green area? Is it emulsion paint over the plaster?

All a matter of personal taste, I quite like to tile all walls that any shower/bath makes contact with, e.g. my main bathroom has side wall of bath fully tiled, then full-height tiles above the ends of the bath, reducing to 2/3 height of the wall for the rest e.g...

I assume there is a small risk with wackers that it could crack the drain pipe under your shingle/type 1, is this what you were worried about?

The entire window is a single top-hung casement so I don't think that will be the case? I opened the window out fully to be able to see all around the frame.

I think you will struggle without taking the final course up and re-setting it in mortar, but hopefully somebody else has a creative idea!

One of the uPVC windows in my house has moved outwards by about 2mm, I noticed because the sealant between the frame and reveal has split all around. With a bit of force, if I get hold of it I can move the whole frame in and out by about 1mm. The house is timber frame with brick skin. As far as...

I've got a house full of Howden's solid wood doors, as have some of my friends. Pleased with them. I fitted Eurospec Enduro ball bearing hinges which are very strong. One caveat is that I had a Howden's moulded fire door once and it warped like crazy, had one bad stile I think.

I tend to gripfill the gaps on all architrave and then paint over it when painting the doorframe. If you've already painted and just want to neaten it up, I'd probably caulk it. I've used exterior acrylic caulk to good effect when worried about any moisture. Silicone generally is a ballache...

The Parkside stuff seems to be getting some decent reviews too.