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Ah I see, well you're probably right then. Can you not run the system hot periodically to sterilize it? Obviously important to check what the plastic etc will tolerate.

I don't really see why it would be a problem if you can wind the elbow all the way onto the tank connector (and can't just waggle it off again). It really depends on what you mean by a bit loose. They could just be at opposite ends of the manufacturing tolerances, but I believe they're nominally...

What purpose is served by earthing a plastic back box other than as a means of earthing the attached equipment?

199 at AO but only violet purple in stock

I would have thought the most discreet way of hiding the chamfer would be to have the plasterboard kissing it at the edge then just caulking down. Gonna look a bit ropey along the bottom though I suppose. Do you have a pic of the bit you're trying to remove? As I recall I just slid putty...

I wouldn't class myself as an expert tiler but I have tiled a few rooms with good results and I really would not worry about 3mm. My assumption would be that you will get a stronger bond with one bed of adhesive at the time of tiling than if you stick new adhesive to not quite new adhesive...

Is there a particular reason you think you need to fill it? I would have thought it was more trouble than it's worth unless you're using tiny tiles that will be swallowed up by the indentations or massive tiles that desperately need 100% adhesive coverage. I just removed some tiles and they did...

Saves washing up a colander when you're doing spaghetti

I imagine it is just some magnetite sludge from your system cleanse. That doesn't preclude there being a bacterial buildup as well, of course.

Make sure they're not asbestos before getting too carried away with the scraping. Personally I'd either replace the lot or accept that they're never going to look very good and just hose them down and then (when dry) slap some Zinsser Allcoat on and hope for the best.

I would probably try (gently) to take as much as possible off with a window scraper and then go fairly energetically at it with a plastic scraper. I haven't had much luck with the enzymatic paste but it gets some good reviews, I think it's more for the final residue than as an alternative to...

Ah, the shadow in the pic was tricking my eye. Yes I do actually remember that now, it was a bit unwelcome because the brickwork was uneven and it made it all but impossible to put any trim over the gap so I ended up using trowel mastic :mrgreen: As for the purpose, I'd say it's just to make...

Presumably you are familiar with section 75 of the consumer credit act?

https://www.marchesironmongery.co.uk/4000-large-plastic-vent-grill-brown.html looks fairly similar but I think you may struggle to get precisely the same moulding. Is it actually something you can see without determined effort? If not I'd have thought you could just staple any old insect screen...

Why do you need water resistant plasterboard unless you're planning on the roof leaking? Do you mean vapour check plasterboard? Not sure it's wise to compromise the insulation by cutting chunks out of it, but equally you need clear space around a downlight for heat to dissipate. I'd have...

I think if you get a swivel pan connector you should be able to rotate the wye towards the front a little though obviously it brings you further out from the wall.

I'm not totally sure what in the picture you consider untoward or which part of the frame I'm looking at. I have actually fitted one of these but I don't remember many specifics except having to prise some bits out to avoid having screwheads visible.

I think it's fairly unusual to have a tee like that oriented vertically right behind the loo. I don't think you'd have much more luck with a floor mounted pan. Obviously you will need to bring everything further out from the wall if you rotate it to horizontal, unless you put the loo on the...

Not sure if it's just me but I'm having a hard time understanding your post. Without seeing the pan itself or being sure how you're positioning everything, it looks to me like there should be scope between adjusting the legs on the frame and using a 90° pan connector to get a normal enough...

Is the nature of the works just sliding out the old sheets and putting new sheets in their stead? From looking at Toolstation that seems to come to about £300-400 materials depending on whether it's under or over 2m when you take the angle into account. Frankly I'd have thought this would take...