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All correct except for the PVA. Use acrylic based as PVA will go live again and debond (and your tiles with it) if any moisture comes through. If you're using a size larger than 30x30 then you need powder based adhesive. +1

You should change your agency is all I've taken from this thread. And listen to PaulC. His advice is spot on here.

http://www.bal-adhesives.com/products/single-part-fastflex/ My only recommendation for T&G.

Pay 100 quid and you might as well give the "tiler" a Stetson hat and a six gun as theres no way in hell that its professionqal. Splashbacks are easily 2 days work as tubbed takes 24 hours after you finish to dry. Cheapest professional tiler I know is £150 for labour a day.but will do a...

Hardiebacker it over plasterboard for me personally.

Ah its me being a donut then and forgetting about the plywood overlay! :)

They should be sealed very 2 or 3 years. Not just the once. Try some Stone Stain Remover on the black spots. Don't use bleach or anything like that. Go to your local tile shop (not BnQ or Wickes etc) and get a reputable brand. Whilst your there you can pick up the sealer too. Should be good...

Straight over chip? Didn't think it would bond to chip which is why I'd say 6 mm Hardiebacker personally. Will have to look into that gear though.

White Star is many times better than Green Star. If you find a stockist of Blue Star then check that out as it's in the middle of Green Star and White. Honestly though, if youre willing to spend the money on White Star then do it. You won't regret it.

Says so right there on the bag ;) Keraflex or Keraquick maybe?

Are you using the BAL basic wall grout or the Micromax2? Topps Grout Cleaner probably won't work on limescale but go to your local store and ask them if they know of anything else you could try. For the record, it's manufactured by Fila not BAL. BALs worst product still leaves Mapei in the...

Explain to your customers that bleaching etc damages the grout and that a PH neutral cleaner can be picked up from most tile specialists. In regards to waterproofing. Epoxy resin grouts are the only chemical and waterproof grouts that let nothing in but not for the faint hearted. They require...

Personally I'd use Green Star by BAL.

Wait 4 weeks from plastering to tiling as per MI. SBR won't hurt it at all.

Fix, clean, seal, grout, clean extremely thoroughly and then final coat of sealer. Don't ever bleach your tiles as this will strip sealer off very quickly and destroy the actual marble.

Good effort. Personally not a fan of the 3rd cut up on the second row in though.

Hardiebacker the shower area if it's scarred.

Hate to say it but if they are coming off then it probably means the skim is wet which means taking the lot off and starting over. Should of been tanked then tiled using powder based adheaive with a full coat. If he dabbed them then all the tiles will fail at some point in their lives.

Make sure your chosen adheaive is within the heat limitations that it will be subject to.

I'd juat point blank tell him. Or I'd just say something like: So how long do the manufacturers want you to wait before tiling over fresh plaster? If he says it's fine then ring BAL or Mapei in front of him. If he still argues then tell him your saving him work. Is he tanking the wet areas btw...