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Hi again Sorry to follow my other thread so quickly with another, but need to choose which one to buy over the weekend so I can get started next week. - I'm a bit confused by wattage. Looking at the Makita range, as the wattage goes up the RPM doesn't go up accordingly. So what difference...

UPDATE on the Sabrecut. Turns out the discs probably aren't 10mm thick after all! It took a LOT of digging to find that out! I'd even had various emails with their tech discussing my intended use, within which I'd mentioned several times that I was using them because the 10mm thickness was...

OK, thanks for the advice, I'll be sure to do that. I'm going to try to fix a length of wood to the wall to help as a guide. I'm thinking it will likely impede the grinder though, and stop me getting maximum depth. So my idea was to cut a shallower channel first, remove the wood, then go...

Just an update... I sent the manufacturer an email RE the two discs linked int he OP... They said they think that the Turbo version (second link) would be better suited than the segmented (first link). And also, that although it is hard to tell, I may need 4-5 discs for the 7-8 metres I need...

OK, thanks for confirming. I'll stick with the 125mm discs in that case. Cheers

OK, thanks for that - perhaps that's a non starter then. I guess I thought that if there was already a 30mm deep chase, and I was using the mortar rake inside the chase to give me additional depth, that the sides of the chase would be enough to act as a guide. Does the end of the rake do the...

Thank you very much, that's really helpful. Anyone have any thoughts on using the mortar rake to add extra depth (as per OP)? Thanks again

Hi all I've got some lead work coming up and will need to chase the stone wall for the flashing. I'm planning to get an angle grinder and use a 10mm thick blade like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08CY465GJ/ref=ewc_pr_img_2?smid=A213SFYA0CUE59&psc=1 Or...

If anyone has any thoughts on my points in the OP, I'd love to hear from you :) Many thanks

Thanks for the response. But being new to this I'm not sure what system would be best or most suitable at this stage. Also, I'm just trying to work out how correct/compatible the existing set up at the ridge is as things stand at the moment, so I can gauge how much work needs to be done...

Hi there I’m hoping to install a ventilated ridge soon and after reading up there’s a few things I’m unsure about. I wondered if anyone could help please? The roof is Welsh slate and has stone/concrete ridge tiles (not sure which m but they are the old type). There is ventilation already at...

Don't worry, my memory isn't so great either and certainly not improving with age! Just checked Calder and it is 75mm for upstand and 100 for the horizontal. p.15. Many thanks for your help.

Great, thank you. I've not seen 100mm specified for the soaker upstands. Most of what I've read and seen says 75mm. I'll double check though and if so I can either do 100mm/125mm or buy 240mm wide lead and go for 100mm/140mm. Ta

Many thanks for the above. Having asked about and thought about this some more, here's what I'm aiming for: - Individual soakers beneath the slates, with 75mm upstands and 150mm horizontals ("flat"). - Slate and a halfs for every other slate, instead of using thinner cut slates. - Flashing in...

The gaps vary around the perimeter. At the widest points it's 10mm. Good plan. I wasn't going to bother filling the smaller gaps. I was just going to fill the larger spaces so that it isn't all filled with caulk/sealant. Stixall polymer, I think that might be similar to Geocel The Works...

Hi I have recently insulated and plasterboarded a ceiling . I put silver aluminium foil tape around the perimeter of the insulation. I now want to fill the gaps between the plasterboard ceiling and walls. There is aluminium foil within this gaps, both at the back and a little on the wall...

And making the flashing L shaped so that it covers the soaker upstand and some of the slates is ok? Or is that what you meant when you say "cover flashing"? Many thanks

Hi My house needs some lead work at an abutment. The wall is stone (random rubble), so it's undulating rather than flat. Also, the wall is rather banana shaped. As such, I imagine the slates won't sit tight up to the wall and there will in fact be various size gaps between the slates and the...

OK, cheers, I'll look into that. I have got some Zinsser Bullseye 123 that I usually use for priming. I'll check the tin to see if that is suitable...

Is that needed if the PB is already moisture resistant? Yep, that's all done thank you. So it's onto the plasterboarding now... Thanks for the reply :)